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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Last night the tumblers on the ignition key started sticking. I got the key in and turned to "on" but it would not send juice to the starter. Then it wouldn't let me get my key to the "off " position I reached under the dash and felt that the rear of the ignition switch was a little cockeyed, probably what was causing the key to not shut off, and next thing I know the whole car is smoking like an extra on a Cheech and Chong movie! WIRE FIRE! I fried from the ignition switch to the regulator. The fuse box is fine and so is the upper bulkhead pass through. Lower bulkhead pass through is toast as well as most of main power wiring from the switch out. Anybody have and idea on where to get parts? I see that Dearborn Classics has the wiring from the firewall to the regulator and the ignition switch. I would then need the lower bulkhead pass through that the wiring attaches to and the underdash wiring. Outta ideas and this car is kicking my arse!
 

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Welcome to the uncertian world of Old cars. Fourty year old wiring is electircal fire, incarnate...not if, only when.

I have been "thinking about" re-wiring my car for several years, but I'm always distracted by something shiney or more quest for more power or wondering if I have the time to break a perfectly good, running car to change something that is still working OK?

Like was mentioned, painless has a several universal kits, I'm not sure, but I think they have specific kits for many Galaxie models too.

It's funny, I was watching a re-run of the Overhaul'n episoid where the did the 67 Galaxie Convertible few days, weeks ago - when the redid the interior, they replaced the wireing too. I starting to notice that the older builds...50's and 60's even some 70's are including new wire harness. Seems logical, since many of use are adding stereos, high power starters as well as high Amp alternators to bring the electrical system up, capable of run things like halegon head lamps.

I sympathize with your troubles, but if you just change your perspective?; ...maybe you can look at it as an opportunity to upgrade to modern, flexible, non-patched and spliced wires - instead of as another set back?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I checked Painless, their website, and they don't offer a kit for the 64 Galaxie. I do have a line on a donar 63 Galaxie 4 door. Does anyone know if the wiring harness under the dash is the same?
 

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Do yourself a favor...unless you just have no other choice, do not replace old wires with more old wires. Been there done that! Old wires may look OK, but when you start bending them, the insulation is more prone to crack or seperate from the old factory fittings than allow you to pull it through all nooks

Did you check all "The usual suspects"? A quick search of Auto Krafter shows they have firewal to headlight for '65's...they might have the same for 60-64, since theya re more popular to the aftermarket. You could also contact that guy down in florida that specialzes in 63 1/2 - 64 Galaxies (greg Donahue).


http://www.autokrafters.com/tpls/Detail.tpl?command=search&db=Catalog.db&eqskudata=C5AZ-14290D&cart=112148062647620

http://www.gregdonahue.com/
 

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WIRING HARNESSES:


1963 DASH TO ENGINE GAUGE FEED WIRING HARNESS
Firewall Plug to Engine
All 352-390-406-427 Except Transistorized Ignition
C2AZ-14289V $100
All 260/289
C3AZ-14289A $100


1964 DASH TO ENGINE GAUGE FEED WIRING HARNESS
Firewall Plug to Engine
All 352-390-427Except Transistorized Igntion
C4AZ-14289M $100
All 289
C4AZ-14289L $100


1963 DASH TO HEADLIGHT WIRING HARNESS
Firewall Plug to Headlight Leads
All with Generator
C3AZ-14290A $150


1964 DASH TO HEADLIGHT WIRING HARNESS
Firewall Plug to Headlight Leads
All with Generator
C4AZ-14290A $150


1963 HEADLAMP WIRING LEAD
Wiring that connects both high and low beam headlights to wiring harness
2 Per Car
C3AZ-13076A $30 Each


1964 HEADLAMP WIRING LEAD
Wiring that connects both high and low beam headlights to wiring harness
2 Per Car
C2OZ-13076A $30 Each


http://www.gregdonahue.com/SWITCHES.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Beowolf: I believe I need the Dash to Headlight Wiring Harness. I also need the Lower plug/bulkhead pass through with all the wires. The wires on the inside of the firewall are just as trashed as the outside wires.

Painless sounds good I just don't thing it's really painless.
 

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Many moons ago I replaced the wire harness in my '51 pickup. My wife and I did it in an afternoon. The work was fairly straight forward. When it came time to hook up the battery, I noticed a slight spark at the terminal. It wasn't too big, so I told my wife that something was on, and to keep an eye out for anything smoking after I connect the battery.

Within ten seconds, she say "You mean like that one?" I had fried the horn wire. Seems I had the relay wired wrong. No other damage as far as I could tell. To this day, I don't have a horn in the truck.

Wiring looks like a major complicated mess. But if you get the correct harness and diagram, it's a matter of step by step. logical connections and actually goes pretty smooth. Be sure to remove all the old stuff first.
 

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Wiring a pickup truck, contrasted with wiring an Old XL Galaxie...is the difference between making a sandwich for a late nite snack vs. Thanksgiving dinner for your family, your parents and the in-laws.

It'll be a PITA and No matter how good it turns out...somebody is gonna' be pissed!

_________________
Of all the rest..."There are three faithful friends, an old wife, an old dog, and ready money..."-- Benjamin Franklin, 1738 --

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Beoweolf on 8/8/06 8:09am ]</font>
 

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Wiring harnesses were brought up here awhile back. Everyone commented on getting painless. I had gone with Centech,which is more expensive because I also received a new headlight switch (without the built in fuses), dimmer switch, ignition, and miscellaneous parts that add up. It was a semi custom Ford harness.
 

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First time poster here.Hello to all.I have a 63 and mine cought on fire twice.The first time I replaced it with stock stuff.The second time I replaced it with a kit from a company called HotRodwiers.Their kits are about half the money of Painless.Also they a a heaver guage.Customer service is outstanding you can call up to 8pm.I really like the guy.He was a electrical engenier for years.It also takes the load off the light switch and puts it on the ign. switch where it belongs.Its prety simple.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'll have to check HotRodWires out. I know it's going to be a lot of work but after getting all the old stuff out last night there is no freakin way I would want to try and put back an OEM system. Guess I'll be checkin out a couple companies. Thanks to all for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ordered the Painless Performance universal muscle car wiring kit. It allows for the use of a bulkhead connection to keep things clean looking so it was about the only real choice once I started looking. Now I just have to hope that it doesn't take FOREVER to install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
UPDATE: Painless Performance muscle car wiring harness is now in the car and everything works. Took more time than I wanted it to but it turned out really nice...and everything worked perfectly when testing all the accessories and such. That being said, I really don't want to ever have to do that again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I am gonna try like crazy. We are moving into a new house on the 21st so I may wait until I get packed up and moved in. The wife was not very happy that I spent 2.5 days on the car while she packed :^) I told her it had to be done to move it. Little did she know I could have hot wired it. What she doesn't know won't hurt her.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hehehe. Way ahead of ya.
 

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On 2006-08-07 22:06, 63galaxie2 wrote:
First time poster here.Hello to all.I have a 63 and mine cought on fire twice.The first time I replaced it with stock stuff.The second time I replaced it with a kit from a company called HotRodwiers.Their kits are about half the money of Painless.Also they a a heaver guage.Customer service is outstanding you can call up to 8pm.I really like the guy.He was a electrical engenier for years.It also takes the load off the light switch and puts it on the ign. switch where it belongs.Its prety simple.
I smell a RAT.......
 

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What do you mean?I simply offerd an alternativeind.Its up to you and everyone else to detumine if it will work for you.And yes I used it on my car.And NO I dont have anything at stake.
 
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