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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an issue with my 1967 Galaxie. The battery died earlier this year because somebody, don't want to name any names, left the glove box open. I tried to jump the battery a few times but it couldn't hold enough of a charge to start the car. Went out and dropped money on a new battery last Tuesday and hooked it up. As soon as I got the negative terminal connected the wire leading to my alt off of the positive lead went up in smoke and melted, which can be seen in the pictures below. It is an obvious short, that much I can figure out. I'm here looking for ideas as to where and why this would suddenly present itself with the new battery. The wiring is old as hell but wasn't visibly damaged.






 

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Re: Wiring Issue - 1967 best option

do yourself a favor and get a for 3g alternator change your pully over from the old one, buy a wiring kit from paw or somewhere like that and forget about the old wiring because it no longer exists.
 

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Re: Wiring Issue - 1967 best option

I too have been looking for wiring harnesses for my '66 (alternator to regulator) and have come up with nothing. I googled "paw" for wiring and came up with no results. What is the "paw" you are talking about?
Darren
 

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Suggest you replace the wire to the alternator and try again. Maybe it was frayed, the battery pinched it onto tray... who knows.
 

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Examine the wire closely. Look for exposed copper or frayed strands that would come in contact with ground or other wiring. Does the evidence of heat only show between battery and alternator? Does it extend to the voltage regulator? Get a multi-meter, disconnect the wire to the solenoid and measure resistance between the ring terminal and ground. Does it show 0 ohms? Investigate by moving wires around, disconnecting leads to see where that short is.

Even though you say there is no physical evidence of damage, you cant see under the taping. The wiring is old school PVC, which is not great for heat (newer cars use a cross link insulation that is much more resistant to heat). The heat over the years most likely cracked your PVC insulation, if you make a 90° bend in a wire, watch it crack. The insulation is brittle in areas exposed to heat.

It is possible that the alternator or voltage regulator is damaged which is the source of the short. You can always remove the alternator and take it to Autozone where they'll test it for free. Same with starters.

Tom
 

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Get a fresh start, Clean everything up replace faulty equipment after having it tested cut, crimp and heat shrink the connections on new wire,then put everything in nice plastic looming prior to clamping it down everywhere possible with ruberized stainless steel clamps.




The wires, hoses, fuel lines and vacuum tubes are some of the most important components on your car, don't skimp on them.

 

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Suggest you replace the wire to the alternator and try again. Maybe it was frayed, the battery pinched it onto tray... who knows.
puttster see's what I see - that frayed open wire may have been under the battery when you put it in. That'd do it.
As has been said, replace all that wire - at least any that is unwrapped or frayed. Solder, don't crimp - you'll be glad you spent the time.
 

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PKTB,
I spoke too pretentiously about my wires and karma got me. Now every wire under my hood is new after the water temp sensor wire shorted out and smoked all of it to the firewall, even the new ones wrapped in my new looming. Dang it!


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I isolated the removed the wire from the alternator and cut it from the Volt Regulator lead so I can get a new one but noticed something odd. The cable, thick and black, ran from the left solenoid to the Red ringed spot on the Alt. Shouldn't this be the spot where the lead from the Positive battery terminal is placed? This black wire I pulled was paired with a yellow wire that leads back to my voltage regulator. The wiring is taped up very tight so I didn't trace it back to see where it lead but I presume it leads to the "A" as it makes the most sense. Going to the store in the morning to get a new wire and hook it up provided that it can just go back to the red ringed spot on the Alt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Get a fresh start, Clean everything up replace faulty equipment after having it tested cut, crimp and heat shrink the connections on new wire,then put everything in nice plastic looming prior to clamping it down everywhere possible with ruberized stainless steel clamps.




The wires, hoses, fuel lines and vacuum tubes are some of the most important components on your car, don't skimp on them.


I cant help but notice that on your image your negative is going down into the compartment and grounded on a bolt I presume. The previous owner has mine hooked to the left side of the solenoid. It ran and never had any issues. Any logic behind this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
This is like a comedy of errors. Rewire everything. Car now starts like new but the negative battery terminal is now stripped and the bolt is stuck half in. Its in just enough to let the car start but not enough for me to want to drive it for fear of it slipping and the ground is lost. I can't get it to tighten up or loosen up. For such an easy fix this is turning out to be a real pain.
 

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Sounds like you are 99% done, good job! You can replace the clamp on the battery wire with a quick-disconnect. Good for clamping and good for other stuff too. I recommend the kind with a lever on it (flip the lever around for a tighter fit), not the green knob.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks. I'm not out of the woods yet. I am using side posts with eyelets so I use battery studs and unfortunately the negative is stripped half in, meaning I can start the car and drive it but it doesnt have a good connection and if it slips down that bolt the car dies. I'll be taking vice grips to it this even to get the bolt out and getting a new one it seems.

On a related not, I noticed my aftermarket volt meter is reading zero now. So I'll be getting the Alt tested after the weather turns nice again. If the alt and regulator are fried, how difficult is it to convert to a 3g? Any good guides floating around?
 

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Can helicoil be used on those threads i wonder? I don't see why not and might be an option rather than a new battery.

Search generator to alternator. There are diagrams on almost every thread here when the topic comes up. There was one just a week or two ago even i think. Here's one of at least 100 threads on the topic but it does have the diagram.
http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/galaxie-pages/508736-generator-alternator.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Can helicoil be used on those threads i wonder? I don't see why not and might be an option rather than a new battery.

Search generator to alternator. There are diagrams on almost every thread here when the topic comes up. There was one just a week or two ago even i think. Here's one of at least 100 threads on the topic but it does have the diagram.
http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/galaxie-pages/508736-generator-alternator.html

I already have an alt in there and it is hooked in with an outside regulator, not to specs but it works. Since I am now thinking both are cooked, I am looking at getting the 3g alt, which bypasses the need for a regulator as it is a "one wire" (Though from my research it appears the A,S,F wires till appears they just don't really go anywhere past a few inches). Perhaps I mistook your intentions however.
 
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