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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
whats it take to brake the crank (working on my first FE)

I just got a 1967 Galaxie said to have a 390 with a spun rod bearing.
This is my first FE build, I normally run SBFs.

started to check out the engine today, block C6ME-A heads C4AE 6090G. intake is an Edelbrock 427 victor. with a Holly carb.

I don't be leave it is just a spun bearing, looks more like the crank snout is broke. When you roll the motor over with the starter you can see the damper moving around.

Some info on the car,
67 Galaxie has a fuel cell in trunk with NOS bottle brackets next to it.
under the trunk are twin electric fuel pumps. One with braided line the other with 1/2 hard line all the way to the front. On the inner fender are 2 fuel pressure regulators, one feeding the holly the other not hooked up. Has a NOS plate under the Holly with the solenoids still connected. NOS line still connected, fuel blocked off. MSD ignition.

Will be pulling engine out 8-2-12.



 

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Sounds like it got hurt bad. Those FE's are VERY VERY hard to kill, but it looks like someone pushed it hard.

The c4 heads that are on it are pretty good, if I am not mistaken they will flow better than CJ heads with some bowl work.

Tear it down and see what happened. A crank would be easy fix on that engine. that is unless they burned holes in the pistons with the N20...
 

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Sounds like it got hurt bad. Those FE's are VERY VERY hard to kill, but it looks like someone pushed it hard.

The c4 heads that are on it are pretty good, if I am not mistaken they will flow better than CJ heads with some bowl work.

Tear it down and see what happened. A crank would be easy fix on that engine. that is unless they burned holes in the pistons with the N20...
C4/G heads flow better than CJ's .
great Wrong info you give retail
 

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C4/G heads flow better than CJ's .
great Wrong info you give retail
With work, they do. At least that is what I have read on the various forums. The port design is very good with cleanup work.

and BTW, OP check your stroke, (can be done with a wood dowel down the spark plug hole) according to a couple websites that casting number (on the block) was on some 428's as well as 360's 390's and 410's.

Looks like it has a BIG lift solid cam in there too! any other specs on the engine?
 

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With work, they do. At least that is what I have read on the various forums. The port design is very good with cleanup work.

and BTW, OP check your stroke, (can be done with a wood dowel down the spark plug hole) according to a couple websites that casting number (on the block) was on some 428's as well as 360's 390's and 410's.

Looks like it has a BIG lift solid cam in there too! any other specs on the engine?
what you read !
must have been on the internetr . you should watch TV ad's .... the State Farm ins. co comes to mind . the one with the French model got some info.
 

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Nice! maybe you can get the fuel system back on line and bring the old Gal back to high speed. Those C4AE heads are among the best, good chance they are already ported and have the bigger valves in them, that would be a great way to start. Does it have headers?
 

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Go Here!
http://survivalmotorsports.com/

Barry is an FE specialist! He does some high end stuff, but his bread and butter is 'regular' FE builds. Plus, if you deal with him, he can answer ALL the little questions that happen to come up. His service is second to none, and I've never heard anyone say anything bad about him... which is RARE. He is a former Federal Mogul engineer, so he knows what parts to sell... and to not sell. His prices are also very good. The cranks, rods, etc he sells are personally checked by him for good tolerances, and he can sell you a rotating assembly that has already been balanced.

Give him a call. If he is a tad more expensive... chances are, he will be less expensive in the long run... as his stuff is ready to go as soon as you buy it. It doesn't nickel and dime you to death with all those unforeseen issues that always tend to pop up.

Plus, don't forget the Ford FE forum...
http://fordfe.com

Barry R... owner of Survival Motorsports, hangs out there a lot. He hangs out here sometimes as well.

Good Luck!
 

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Damper could be cracked. I had one do that(not on an FE). My machine shop told me it was caused by me not tightening down the damper bolt enough. It had just enough movement to cause the key to wedge into the snout and it cracked it out. Caused a heck of a vibration and wiped out the timing cover seal but that is all. I got a new damper, new key and tightened it down good and it has been fine.
 

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Go Here!
Survival Motorsports Home Page

Barry is an FE specialist! He does some high end stuff, but his bread and butter is 'regular' FE builds. Plus, if you deal with him, he can answer ALL the little questions that happen to come up. His service is second to none, and I've never heard anyone say anything bad about him... which is RARE. He is a former Federal Mogul engineer, so he knows what parts to sell... and to not sell. His prices are also very good. The cranks, rods, etc he sells are personally checked by him for good tolerances, and he can sell you a rotating assembly that has already been balanced.

Give him a call. If he is a tad more expensive... chances are, he will be less expensive in the long run... as his stuff is ready to go as soon as you buy it. It doesn't nickel and dime you to death with all those unforeseen issues that always tend to pop up.

Plus, don't forget the Ford FE forum...
332-428 Ford FE Engine Forum

Barry R... owner of Survival Motorsports, hangs out there a lot. He hangs out here sometimes as well.

Good Luck!
one could find out if Barry would pick the C4/G head over the C8/N ((CJ)

the C4/G is not the C4 HighRiser head from 1964 427's
 

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It's not at all hard to spin bearings in the garden variety FEs..When I was young I had a pile of FEs with holed blocks...The oiling system can use a little help when you start to run them hard and make some power..
 

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Go Here!
Survival Motorsports Home Page

Barry is an FE specialist! He does some high end stuff, but his bread and butter is 'regular' FE builds. Plus, if you deal with him, he can answer ALL the little questions that happen to come up. His service is second to none, and I've never heard anyone say anything bad about him... which is RARE. He is a former Federal Mogul engineer, so he knows what parts to sell... and to not sell. His prices are also very good. The cranks, rods, etc he sells are personally checked by him for good tolerances, and he can sell you a rotating assembly that has already been balanced.

Give him a call. If he is a tad more expensive... chances are, he will be less expensive in the long run... as his stuff is ready to go as soon as you buy it. It doesn't nickel and dime you to death with all those unforeseen issues that always tend to pop up.

Plus, don't forget the Ford FE forum...
332-428 Ford FE Engine Forum

Barry R... owner of Survival Motorsports, hangs out there a lot. He hangs out here sometimes as well.

Good Luck!
Good advice. Barry also published a very good FE book called "How to Build Max-Performance Ford FE Engines" It's packed full of useful information.
 

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If you actually read and understood my post you would have realized that I stated that worked c4-g's will outflow cj's. I never said stock c4s are better than stock cj's.
apple to apple , ported to non ported of different castings is never good info for the best castings . very mis-leading
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Its had a stroke of 3.78. the end of the cam is engraved with what looks like 290/307 with some more that I can't make out. The pistons are BRC? looks tike 2 of them kissed the heads.

 
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