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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So..I bit the big one and picked up some used slicks on an old pair of Crager's yesterday...looks like I'm building a track car. Being a Newb, I obviously have way too many questions to ask in a single post so I thought I would narrow it down to the one that I can't seem to answer with out some advise. Simply: I 've got an E303 and an X303 roller cam to put into my 302, I've driven an E303 before but have no idea how the X303 will behave and hesitate to install it just out find out....any takers on this one?
 

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Little more duration in the X but not a lot. The biggest difference is lift. X has around .540 compared to the E with a bit less than .500. You will need to check piston to valve clearance with the X303 and likely need to have the pistons cut.
 

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+1. Crusty, without knowing a lot more about your combination, it's had to say if it's a good thing or not. As Hottie said, the difference is not huge in duration, but the LSA is also a bit wider. The effect is to move the torque band higher, pushing towards more of a top-end cam. This would be better for a lighter car, or one with iffy traction. Not good for a heavy or high-geared car as you will lose a noticeable amount of low-end torque. Sorry to talk in generalities, but that's all we can give with no other info and if your head flow, exhaust, etc. will be compatible. However, based on how the car works now, and what mods you are planning, you can judge for yourself if these traits will be good for your combo.

David
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys, here's a little bit more info of my build plan if this will help. Stock 66 Mustang coupe, stripped down interior, no side glass with only front bucket seats. Engine: 302- 60cc aluminum heads, roller rockers- 9.5:1 - 10.0:1+ compression (haven't decided yet, may try to stay with pump gas) electric fuel and water pumps- either dual quad Holly 450cfm 4160's or a single Holley 650 double pumper on top of either a Weiland Stealth or an old Edelbrock F4b . I have an aluminum drive shaft I can use and the rear end now is a stock 9" (3.55 I think), long tube headers and ??????exhaust...and as per my earlier post, I'll be using my 4 speed top loader with an 11" clutch using a 164 tooth flywheel and a 351 bellhousing. My thoughts are not to make this a street legal car so I have some options available which is kind of why I have these questions...too many options and no experience. For now at least, the parts I mentioned are one I currently own and I want to use what I've got at least for a start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
while I'm at it, based on the parts I just listed so far, any overall recommendations for my proposed build plan would greatly be appreciated...learning by trial an error can be a good way to learn in respects to "really learning" vs learning by having it done for you, but getting help to get off to a good start beats the school of hard knocks...just looking to avoid the latter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys, here's a little bit more info of my build plan if this will help. Stock 66 Mustang coupe, stripped down interior, no side glass with only front bucket seats. Engine: 302- 60cc aluminum heads, roller rockers- 9.5:1 - 10.0:1+ compression (haven't decided yet, may try to stay with pump gas) electric fuel and water pumps- either dual quad Holly 450cfm 4160's or a single Holley 650 double pumper on top of either a Weiland Stealth or an old Edelbrock F4b . I have an aluminum drive shaft I can use and the rear end now is a stock 9" (3.55 I think), long tube headers and ??????exhaust...and as per my earlier post, I'll be using my 4 speed top loader with an 11" clutch using a 164 tooth flywheel and a 351 bellhousing. My thoughts are not to make this a street legal car so I have some options available which is kind of why I have these questions...too many options and no experience. For now at least, the parts I mentioned are one I currently own and I want to use what I've got at least for a start.
 

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Try to keep the compression up as much as you can..It isn't easy with a smallblock ford..With aluminium heads I would want between 10 and 11:1..You can still run pump gas easily with the right cam..For a strip car I would keep it simple and go with the single 650DP....If you can find some lower rear gears like a 4:11 or 4:30 I would go for them..Then you might also want to run a single plane intake like a vic jr or weiand Xcellerator to add some high rpm power to go with the gears..
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I wasn't sure how far I could go with the compression with the aluminum heads...I can easily sell some of the stuff I own to reinvest in a few different parts like the intake manifold as you suggested. So the question is now, are either one of these the "right" cam for your recommendation?
 

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I have used the x-cam in the past, It worked well I would use it with a Vic Jr intake if you can find one. Check P-V clearance, notch if required.

+1 on the 4.11:1 .

Your car should be pretty light, that will help.
 

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Agreed on the compression thing. :tup: I'm running just over 10.5:1 on my 347 on 91 octane (CA gas) and it's fine. For a strip only car I'd probably go with 11:1.

I also agree on the gearing - go lower for sure. A 3.50 gear will leave you hanging at the top end. The goal is to get the engine at peak power in high gear as you cross the line.

As far as the cam goes why not go aftermarket and get something better. Those Ford cams are okay (small for a strip only car) but you'll find a better grind with somebody like Comp Cams.

Long tube headers are the ticket for sure and some tracks may require mufflers but a pair of bolt on "Drag Mufflers" would take care of that.

Most of all have fun!

John
 
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