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Discussion Starter #1
I've been meaning to start a progress thread since I bought the car, just haven't gotten around to it. I bought the car mostly restored, so there isn’t anything crazy going on here. Just small stuff.

I bought the car in November of 2014 from Southern Classic Cars in Wake Forest NC. Was recently restored with 80 miles on the rebuild 289.

Pictures from the day I picked her up:




Home safe.


















 

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Discussion Starter #2
It came with a Vintage air system, here are a few pictures of it in case someone ever tries to put one in.


Modified existing controls.








 

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Discussion Starter #3
On our way home, my sister was following, we realized the brake lights didn’t work. One light just stay lit up at all times and the other was always off, even if the headlights were on. After doing some research we realized the turn signal switch had gone bad.

So I ordered and replaced the switch.

Dorman - Help Turn Signal Cam - Part No. 49305 - $21.99

In this picture you can kind of see the broken piece jamming up the switch to the left.






Once that was done my turn signals worked, however my brake lights still didn’t really work, I really had to step on the brakes to get them to light up. Bad brake light switch.

CARQUEST by BWD Brake Light Switch - Part No. S255 - $6.99

So finally have working rear lights, I go to drive it and realize that I don’t have any dash lights. After taking the dash apart I realized that the dimmer switch had gone bad. So it got pulled and replaced.

CARQUEST by BWD Headlight Switch - Part No. S149P - $14.99



Here you can see me pointing to the corrosion build-up that was the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So I finally think I’m good to go to enjoy the car I just bought, I hop In it, go to fire it up, and the brake pedal goes to the floor. After further investigation; I realized that my brakes were a ruin. A few broken springs, a few leaking cylinders, and a few bad pads. So I replaced as much as I could get my hands on: all the hardware, all the wheel cylinders, all the shoes, and the front rubber hoses.

Rear Shoes- Wearever Silver Brake Shoes - Part No. FR263 - $19.99
Front Shoes- Wearever Silver Brake Shoes - Part No. FR264 - $15.99
Hardware Right Side- Wearever Drum Brake Self-Adjuster Repair Kit - Part No. 2545 - $9.99
Hardware Left Side- Wearever Drum Brake Self-Adjuster Repair Kit - Part No. 2544 - $10.99
Front Right Cylinder- CARQUEST Wearever Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder - Part No. WCA49233 - $25.99
Front Left Cylinder- CARQUEST Wearever Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder - Part No. WCA49232 - $25.99
Rear Right Cylinder- CARQUEST Wearever Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder - Part No. WCA17508 - $10.99
Rear Left Cylinder- CARQUEST Wearever Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder - Part No. WCA17507 - $10.99
Front Rubber Hose- BrakeBest - Brake Hose – Part No. BH49647 - $11.99



 

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Discussion Starter #5
Traded my CD player from my old car for window tinting. I think it’s 50%.
Before:


After:


Had some issues with my driver vent window, wouldn’t shut all the way, and was super loose.








Ended up being a screw missing.




 

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Discussion Starter #6
Since I bought it I was having suspension issues. I would drag the back end sometimes coming down my driveway and when I had a full car my front tires would rub on the fender when I turned. Realized I had a pretty bad sag going on. Not wanting to do new springs I decided to go with Monroe Sensa-Track Load Adjusting Shocks. They are designed for towing, but I figured they would perk up my suspension some until I got around to new springs.
FRONT: Monroe Load Adjusting Shock Absorber - Part No. 58263 - $67.99
REAR: Monroe Load Adjusting Shock Absorber - Part No. 58510 - $89.99



Height before:


After:






 

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Discussion Starter #7
Shortly after I came across a deal that I couldn’t pass up, wanting to add power on in the future I knew a better intake manifold was a must. I found an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake new on craigslist for $100. Took me two tries to install. The first time I refused to remove the distributor and didn’t get a good seal since I had to drag it in place. Second time I took it off and used studs to guide it in place… Worked much much better.

Edelbrock 7121 Performer RPM Intake Manifold, Dual Plane, Ford 289/302 – Part No. 7121 - $100.00







To accent my new intake manifold I decided to order a little dress up kit (air filter and valve covers). I hated the chrome.

Steel Black Powder Coated Engine Dress Up Kit 260 289 302 351W V-8 – No Part No. - $99.99 + shipping







 

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Discussion Starter #8
Got a few good weeks of driving out of it before I was in a parking lot and it wouldn’t turn over. No charge. Opened the hood to see that my alternator/compressor belt was super loose. Tracking down why I realized that all the points of “support” that the previous owner put on the compressor had failed.













So, in order to mount it correctly, I tracked down a factory compressor bracket, once I had that I ordered a York to Saden bracket from eBay. Both brackets were slightly too long and hit the power-steering pump bracket, so they had to be modified.

YORK TO SANDEN 508/709 CONVERSION BRACKET – No part number - $49.99









 

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Discussion Starter #9
Next up I decided to delete my radio (it was never going to work and I didn’t care to fix it) and replace it with a few gauges. I originally had Oil Pressure and Temp mounted under the dash. I cut some plexi-glass and modified the dash trim and set the gauges up behind the plexi-glass, makes them much easier to see. I originally used the plastic line, it quickly fell on the exhaust, melted, and sent me smoking down the highway, so I switched to copper.

Bosch Gauges 3 Gauge Kit 2"-Blk - Part No. FST 8218 - $39.99
Bosch Gauges Copper Tubing Kit - Part No. FST 7584 - $10.99











 

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Discussion Starter #10
The metal on the taillights were super pitted when I bought the car, I’d been keeping an eye out for a better set, while at Charlotte Motor Speedway Annual show I found a set for sale, ended up buying them for $25. They were very dirty, but that’s all. Took them home, took them apart, and used some mothers polish for a few hours and got them as good as I could get them.









 

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Discussion Starter #11
About this time, summer has started to roll around, and I started having overheating issues. I took the radiator out to inspect it and realized it was very clogged up, I also realized that I didn’t have a thermostat. So I replaced the thermostat, radiator, upper and lower hoses, water pump, and had a fan shroud fabricated. I drew up what I needed out of a shroud and gave it to my sisters company, she worked for an HVAC fabricator.

CARQUEST or ToughOne Radiator - Part No. 433411 - $155.99
LOWER CARQUEST by Dayco Curved Radiator Hose - Part No. C70445 - $16.09
UPPER CARQUEST by Dayco Curved Radiator Hose - Part No. C70543 - $11.09
Superstat Superstat™ Super Premium Thermostat, 180 Degrees Fahrenheit - Part No. 45358 - $8.09
CARQUEST Water Pump - Heavy Duty - Part No. T3132 - $43.29





 

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Discussion Starter #12
At a local car show, won top 75 out of the 50 cars there lol.



Victory was short, on my way home from the car show my power steering gear box started to leak. So with the help of Desert, I rebuilt it.

Powercraft Steering Gear Major Seal Kit - Part No. 7642 - $27.66













 

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Discussion Starter #13
Which finally leads to today. I dropped the drive shaft last night to replace the rear extension housing seal to hopefully stop my transmission leak that I’ve had since I bought it. While I had the shaft out I figured I’d go ahead and replace the U-Joints. Auto Zone only had the front one on hand, I’m picking up the rear after work. I pried the seal out with a flathead and installed the new one with a hammer and a pipe that fit on the outside of the seal.

Driveworks Oil Seal - Part No. S-7692S - $1.79
FRONT Duralast/U-Joint – Part No. 1-0153DL - $12.99
REAR Duralast/U-Joint – Part No. 1-4635DL - $9.99










I hope to keep this thread updated as I go along now, instead of a big one catching up. It’ll help me keep track of everything and hopefully help/entertain a few of you guys.

Latest pic of my car while getting sno-cones.

 

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Discussion Starter #15
Great progress on the Gal. I bet it took you a while to get all these pics lined up in order. Hope your rear seal will end your transmission leak problems.
Thanks, yeah it took quite some time. It was a slow day at work lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Few small updates.

-Finally got going on my audio system, few months back I got my speakers put in. Got two 6x9’s on the rear deck and found a place in the front vents (no longer used since I have the Vintage Air system), for two 6.5” speakers.

The front speakers are a bit muffled, but I’m still happy with it. I’ve been scratching my head on where to put my head unit, I refuse to put a new CD player on my dash, and I didn’t want to pay $500 for a sub-par antique style radio. The speakers were pulled out of my old car, I’ve had em for years and absolutely love them.

So I came up with putting it in the glovebox. I already don’t have a glovebox due to the vintage air system, so no loss there. It’s sitting on the actual glovebox, I keep the glovebox closed most of the time and only open it when I need to adjust the audio, it’s Bluetooth so I don’t have any AUX wires running to it, I control it all through my phone- including volume. Still need to clean up some wires, but I’m happy with it.

Also, during installation, I found out that I do have rear seatbelts, I didn’t think they came with them. I took them out for now due to the fact I hate the gold… Will replace soon with some black ones.

6x9’s - Infinity Reference 9623i- Part No. 1089623I - $139.99 pair
6.5’s - Infinity Reference 6022i- Part No. 1086022I - $59.99 pair
Head Unit - Pioneer MVH-X370BT- Part No. 130X370BT - $89.99
Universal Underdash Kit – Part No. 120999000 - $19.99











 

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Discussion Starter #18
I've had overheating issues since I bought the car, I think I'm finally starting to win the battle. I've replaced every component of my cooling system, so I started thinking that there must not be anything wrong with my cooling system, that my engine is just simply getting too hot for some reason.

I read that bad timing can cause this. I went out and bought a digital timing light and did some research on what my timing should be set at (I got the digital one so I could see my RPMs). So according to the spec book, at 500-600 RPM I should be sitting at 6*-8* BTDC. Marked it and hooked up my light. Off the get-go I realized that my idle was WAYY to high. Once warmed up I was running at about 1300 RPM in park and 1150 RPM-1200 RPM in gear. So I toned that back to 650 RPM in park and 550 RPM in gear, spec book calls for 600 RPM, I still need to pump it up some, not a big fan of 550 PRM.

Anyway- once I got that settled I check my timing, at 550 RPM my timing was off the chart, if I had to guess I'd say it was in the ballpark of 25 BTDC or so. So I backed that off and it immediately started sounding better. Right now it's sitting between 6* and 8* BTDC.

I took it out and about it and stayed much cooler, at lights it still creeped up, but it's about 1/2 the speed it was creeping up prior. So, what I hope to be the final dagger in my overheating problem- I ordered a new fan to replace the old four blade, replaced it last night, got a shorter spacer so the fan blades stick out a little bit from the shroud.

I took it out when I was done, drove it up and down the highway to get it up to temp and stopped and idled in a parking lot for 10 min, driving it stuck between 180* - 190*. Idling for 10 min it did break 200*, mind that it has been a lot cooler lately, but that didn't really make a difference when I was overheating.

I'm really hoping my overheating Saga has come to an end- I'd really like to move on to something else lol.

Derale 17317 Heavy Duty Fan Blade - Part No. 17317 - $46.90
Torqflo/Fan Blade Spacer Kit - Part No. 973962 - $9.99
Actron Digital Timing Light - Part No. CP7529 - $104.99 (don't worry, I only paid $50)

Old VS New






-Zig
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Few small changes.

I noticed the passenger front tire had been wearing pretty badly on the inside lip. I also had a pretty bad squeak on that side. Upon further investigation I discovered that everything (other than the shocks that I had already replaced) appeared to be original to the car. So I ordered:

MOOG K8266 - Suspension Stabilizer Bar Link - $7.00
MOOG K8083 - Upper control arm bushings - $10.00
MOOG K8212 - Front Upper Ball Joint - $27.00
MOOG K8059 - Front Lower Ball Joint - $27.00
MOOG K8082 - Lower Control Arm Bushing - $10.00

I only did one side for now, planning on doing the other side in a week or two. It was a tough job. I used an angle grinder to cut off the old ball joints and then tapped them out. I found, for removing the old control arm pushing, I grabbed them in my vice grip and worked them out with a pickle fork.

Few quick pics, didn't take many, was a frustrating job. I planned on taking a week or so to slowly do it, and as soon as I had it taken apart the brakes went out on my truck so I had to speed up the process.

Ready to go back in:













Picked up some new script letters for the side of the Galaxie. Polished them up and repainted the black outline.









My car had been making a odd grinding noise when I started it pretty often. I couldn't figure it out at the time, but looking back it should have been pretty obvious. Starter teeth were wearing out, got to the point where it wouldn't grab when we were out to dinner. I kept trying and trying because it would grab a little hoping it would be enough to get lucky and start (which I'm guessing is why it looks as bad as it does). With a tow on the way it finally started and I headed home.

Swapped out the starter, sounds way better starting up now. Think that starter has been going out since I got the car. I felt as much of the fly wheel as I could, all the teeth on it feel solid.





-Zig
 

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Discussion Starter #20
New Steering Wheel.

I've never been a fan of the rubber cheap looking steering wheel that came in my car. So for Christmas my wife ordered me a nice wood grain wheel. Costed about $150. The first one that came in the mail was super red in color, even though the picture showed it as very brown. So I talked to the seller and he got the darkest one from his inventory and sent it to me. Pictures make it look brighter than it is, but it looks great!

Old:





First one I got in the mail:



Darker one installed:



Don't mind the fuzzy dice lol. My nephews got it for me for Christmas so I had to keep them on for a little bit.

-Zig
 
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