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Discussion Starter #21
Front drivers suspension.

I finally got everything to do the front drivers side suspension. Also go tie rods and tie rod ends. And then got it aligned... took the shop 3 days... never going there again.

MOOG K8266 - Suspension Stabilizer Bar Link - $7.00
MOOG K8083 - Upper control arm bushings - $10.00
MOOG K8212 - Front Upper Ball Joint - $27.00
MOOG K8059 - Front Lower Ball Joint - $27.00
MOOG K8082 - Lower Control Arm Bushing - $10.00
MOOG ES351RL - Tie Rod Ends - $41.99
MOOG ES727 - Tie Rods - $58.99

New upper ball joint and control arm bushings


Lower ball joint and steering stabilizer




Tie rods


Back together.


-Zig
 

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Discussion Starter #22
So, fried_daddy and I have been talking for a few days now about rebuilding our transmissions, and we have both decided to take the plunge... well he dove in head first lol, I'm more wading it slowly with a life jacket on haha.

If you haven't seen his work yet, go here: http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/galaxie-pages/619586-my-cruise-o-matic-rebuild-thread.html

Anyway, my transmission has had this problem since I bought it, every winter when it starts getting cold my tranny starts acting up. It takes a few seconds to grab 1st first thing in the morning or if the car is cold in general, when it does finally grab it acts up for the next 5 minuets until the transmission warms up. After doing some research I've come to the conclusion that the seals and what have you are leaking when the tranny is cold. And it appears to be getting worse.

I've been trying to track one to rebuild down for a few weeks now (I'm a wuss- don't want to tear down my only transmission that I know somewhat works and risk not having one at all!). Well a light went off in my head a few days ago and I called the guy I got the script letters from who was parting out his old 66' four door. The ONLY thing he had left was the tranny its the right one! So I drove up to VA and picked it up a few days ago.

The car had been sitting in the woods for years, he said he knew the tranny worked because he got the car to fire and drove it out of the woods. It appeared to be in good shape, just very dirty and oily, which is good, keep it from rusting and bolts from seizing.

So I starting taking it apart last night, I'm going to get into the guts of it this weekend and go from there. I haven't ordered any parts yet, to be honest I'm waiting for fried_daddy to get all his parts in to make sure they are all right before I start ordering them lol.

Here are some pics:

How I got it, after spraying it at a car wash.


Pre-demo pics






Little bracket keeping the torque converter from falling out.


Converter out






So this is the first transmission I've ever messed with. I was really expecting the bell housing to weight a ton. So once I got the bolts off I grabbed a rubber mallet to knock it off. One swing and it scared the **** out of me. That thing went flying across my garage haha. So in case you didn't know- they don't weigh much.


Next to go was the dipstick tube... Now at this point I have loaded and unloaded this thing 5 times, and placed it standing up on the bell to spray it off... NEVER one single drop of transmission fluid came out. I taught it was safe to assume that it was empty. Nope. Took the tube out an it just started pouring out. Luckily I had it on a pan, it stopped just before cresting over the side of the pan.


You can see the mess here. Got the tail housing off. and much to my surprise it was a lot cleaner inside that I was expecting. It may be typical that they are this clean, but a 50 yr old car that has been in the woods for god knows how long, I was really expecting it to be gunked up and full of metal flakes.




Once all that was off, it was manageable enough for me to move it, clean up, and move over to my workbench and off the ground.




Took the pan off to see what the inside is looking like, and again- not that bad looking...








And that's where it sits for now. I'm hoping to pick up a parts washer today - seems like a good opportunity to go ahead and buy one. I hope to get into the guts of it this weekend and start ordering parts next week.

Special thanks to fried_daddy lol!

-Zig
 

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If the trans in your car now continues to have an attitude, can always just use 2nd gear to get going.


had a 62 Galaxie that behaved like you are describing before it totally decided that it was not gonna let 1st gear work at all.


started using 2nd to get rolling and then shifted into 3rd when it got up to speed. (had a 390 in it so getting going was not a problem.)


I also tend to use this method when the roads are wet or icy----much easier to get going without tire spin.


Told my wife to do this in the T-Birds when it rained here (94 &97).
The 94 shifted real hard on the 1-2 shift and liked to try to get away from her. When she started using 2nd in bad weather, she had no more issues with it.
 

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Ziggy!
Good updates. What alignment shop did you take your car to? I will make sure that I don't go there when I get my front end alignment. The transmission project is going to be really interesting. I got more parts in today but haven't had a chance to make a post update yet.

Did you get your horn working on your new steering wheel? If so, did they include a horn ring with it or did you order a different horn ring? I ordered three different steering wheel mounting kits and none of the three lined up with the horn contacts in my steering column.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
If the trans in your car now continues to have an attitude, can always just use 2nd gear to get going.


had a 62 Galaxie that behaved like you are describing before it totally decided that it was not gonna let 1st gear work at all.


started using 2nd to get rolling and then shifted into 3rd when it got up to speed. (had a 390 in it so getting going was not a problem.)


I also tend to use this method when the roads are wet or icy----much easier to get going without tire spin.


Told my wife to do this in the T-Birds when it rained here (94 &97).
The 94 shifted real hard on the 1-2 shift and liked to try to get away from her. When she started using 2nd in bad weather, she had no more issues with it.
Yeah I've tried dropping it into a higher gear off the line, no dice. The only thing that I've found that somewhat works is swap between Reverse and Drive a few times until it grabs drive. Then sitting there with it idling in drive for a few minuets until it warms up.
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
Ziggy!
Good updates. What alignment shop did you take your car to? I will make sure that I don't go there when I get my front end alignment. The transmission project is going to be really interesting. I got more parts in today but haven't had a chance to make a post update yet.

Did you get your horn working on your new steering wheel? If so, did they include a horn ring with it or did you order a different horn ring? I ordered three different steering wheel mounting kits and none of the three lined up with the horn contacts in my steering column.
Little place in Downtown Mebane- I didn't go to my normal guy because the alignment was so out of wack I didn't want to drive it that far. So I limped my way somewhere close. They were nice and all, but 3 days for an alignment? The other guy I went to did it a 2 hours.

It did come with a ring. Fits up pretty well, only downside to it is there is an adapter plate that's probably 2.5" deep, so the steering wheel sits out further than it use to, which isn't all bad, it's pretty far up from the factory.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/172010940115?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 

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Little place in Downtown Mebane- I didn't go to my normal guy because the alignment was so out of wack I didn't want to drive it that far. So I limped my way somewhere close. They were nice and all, but 3 days for an alignment? The other guy I went to did it a 2 hours.

It did come with a ring. Fits up pretty well, only downside to it is there is an adapter plate that's probably 2.5" deep, so the steering wheel sits out further than it use to, which isn't all bad, it's pretty far up from the factory.

1965 1969 Mustang Steering Wheel Dark Pine Wood on Black 14" Ford Center Cap | eBay
2 hours sounds alot better.

I'll have to check out that new wheel this spring to see what it looks like size wise on the car compared to the old one. I think our old wheels were similar.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Well, I had a busy weekend of tearing down the guts of my transmission. Everything went very smooth and really didn’t run into any problems. Took lots of pictures to keep track of everything. Also finally got myself a parts washer, which is very nice to have. I lucked out on the tranny, haven’t run into some of the issue fried_daddy has. All my bushings look great, little to no wear on them. And my bands look brand new. So – here we go.

Tail housing and pan cleaned up.






Drive shaft seal removal. Just used a small flathead and a hammer.


Pan and tail housing ready for paint.








Painted using VHT Flat Aluminum paint




 

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Discussion Starter #29
Filter and strap are easy to remove. Just unclip the strap.




Springs released from pressure regulator – you don’t have to do this while this is on the tranny. You can wait and remove the springs once the pressure regulator is uninstalled.




There are three tubes that need to be removed before you can start pulling anything else out. They just pull out from their respective slots.










Once those are out there are two bolts holding in the pressure regulator. Remove those bolts and the regulator lifts right now. A regular socket wouldn’t fit – had to use a 12 point socket.


Next is the valve body and front servo. The valve body is held in with 3 bolts on the side, it’s also attached to the front servo by two tubes, and these tubes need to be removed before the valve body will come out. The front servo is held in by one bolt.






I had to remove the band adjustment bolt before I could get the front servo out.










Rear servo comes out with two bolts.


 

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Discussion Starter #30
That takes care of the bottom end, now on to the interior guts.

Front pump is held in with four bolts. Remove those then pull. There is a rubber seal on the lip of it.






Pressure modulator just screws out. – That end rod does slide out, so don’t lose it.




Flip it around to the other side, still got the tail housing gasket on.


On to the distributor, there is a snap ring holding it in. Remove it, pull on the assymply until the hoses slide out, then it should slide right off – had to put some force behind pulling it to get the three hoses out.






The governor – there is one snap right way up by the governor that has to be removed. There are four other rings that make it easier to remove the governor, but I found that you do not have to remove them. I tried to remove two and they both snapped so I left the other two. Luckily for me, fried_daddy said these rings are included in the rebuild kit.






There is a small ball that goes under the gov. I didn’t see it at first and found it later on my pan.


Next up is the suction and discharge tube. Suction was easy, like fried_daddy said the discharge calls for a special tool. I found that a set of snap ring pliers worked great.












Now, from here I really don’t know the names of the parts lol, so bear with me. At this point you should be able to pull the rear shaft with the rear pump off. Just grab the shaft and pull strait out.




There is a gasket between the rear pump and the tranny housing.


Once out, you can lift the rear pump off the shaft.




There is a small “key” that holds the pump in the correct position, don’t lose it.




 

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Discussion Starter #31
Then grab and pull the rear gear assembly. It should pull out pretty easily




The rear band is next, it has two little wedges that go on each end of the band, remove those then slide the band out.






The band appears in great shape, no wear marks on it at all.


Next up is a center plate, it’s held it by 3 bolts on the outside of the case, the top one should have been removed already.




This one holds this tube down also, I removed the tube when I removed the bolt.




Next set of gears should then pull out.




Followed by the front pump and shaft.




The front band will then pull out the top. It too is in great shape.




Then you should have a nice empty shell.




 

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Discussion Starter #32
Spent a little bit of time cleaning and painting the bell housing.








Then cleaned and painted the main housing.








And this is where I stand now. I cleaned up all the internal parts, and got them all laid out in order. This week I’m going to go through and clean the servos, valve body, and pressure regulator. I expect to have the rebuild kit by the end of the week and hopefully this bad boy back together next week.





-Zig
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Short and dirty update. Didn't take any detailed pictures of the reassembly of the trans. Just follow dis-assembly backwards.

Few pics of it all back together:









Finally got the old one taken out. Was able to borrow Fried's transmission jack for a few weeks. I dropped it coming out. Was trying to re-center it on the jack half way down and it slipped right out. I was able to cushion the blow, but still got my heart going.





Quickly realized the bell housings are different. Must be the difference between the 289 and 390. So I cleaned the old one, and painted it.



After a painful battle last night of sliding the new one under the car, and getting it on the jack by myself under the car, then aligning it, it's in its home now. Still got a handful of bolts before it's holding it's own weight. Hope to have it done this weekend. But I also have a flooring project going on in my house.



-Zig
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Well... That sucked.

Want to start by giving a huge shout out to Fried_daddy. He came out this past weekend and helped me a ton with getting my trans straightened out and back in.

So... I'm just going to go ahead and say that I learned a valuable lesson the hard way... Measure, measure, and measure.

My clutch packs were both off. The forward one was 0.050" too small, so when the piston pushed it pushed to the point that the seal was exposed. When the seal was exposed pressure forced it out and blew out... Trashed the drum.

The other pack wasn't as bad, still small, but didn't do any damage. Luckily for me I had another transmission that we were able to salvage the drum out of.





So, when Fried came over Saturday morning, I had the trans taken apart and set out, while he checked my sad measurements I took apart the old trans to get the drum. He came over around 8:45a. By 5:30p we were test driving it. Pretty proud of the work we got done: Tore down one trans, put the other together, mounted, torqued, cross member installed, cooling tubes bent and installed, drive shaft, parking brake, misc connections, filled and go.



The transmission works great, shifts are a tad sloppy, but I think the pressure modulator is leaking air.

So after 3 weeks of sitting on jack stands I finally got to take her out and wash her.





As far as pricing is concerned, I think I made out pretty well, I know Fried spent in the $800 range - but he had a lot more parts he had to replace than I did. So here's my breakdown:

Extra transmission to rebuild - $180

Makco Rebuild Master Kit - 106006B - $86.66
Trans oil filter - A106010B - $9.12
Vac Modulator - 206160 - $21.61
Trans Magnet - M465SC - $2.34
Oil Pan Gasket - ATP FG1 - $3.02
Transmission Mount - EM2242 - $4.66

Misc Items - Paint, Fluid, Tubes ect... - $100

All in all I got out great. ~$200 for the rebuild - not including the purchase of the trans. I got lucky though, I reused my torque converter and my bands had plenty of meat left on them. I plan on building the other one eventually - hope to put it into a f100 one day. Have to track down a new front drum and valve selector valve (somehow we bent one), but from what I've seen that wont be too hard to do.

Today I should have a new carb coming in the mail.

Holley 0-80570 570CFM Street Avenger - $280

Holley sells factory referbed ones on ebay, it's typically a $430 carb. Pretty stoked about it. Will update once done.

Thanks again Fried!

-Zig
 

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Enjoyed the transmission projects. I'm looking forward to see how much of a difference that new carb will make for you performance wise going from 2 bbl to 4 bbl and also increasing the CFMs. I pulled out my carb manual last night and read up on the fine tuning section. Might have to have a carb tuning day!
 

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That is really cool to have help from the board in person. I was/am a member of a Maverick board, made some good friends and gave and received help along the way. Great to see that happening. I no longer have a Maverick so I don't fequent there much but I stay in contact with the friends I have made.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Few updates. Got my carb in and installed a few weeks ago. Still have some kinks to iron out but overall I'm quite happy with the power gain from it.

Holley 0-80570 570CFM Street Avenger Factory Refurbished 4bbl - $280.00







I recently ordered a NOS hood ornament from eBay. I payed up for it, but I think it's worth it. It's always bugged me because its what you look at the entire time your driving.

NOS Hood Ornament - $160.00













-Zig
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Apparently I cannot get away from my cooling woes. Parked my car a few weeks ago, heard a hissing sound. Opened the hood to find that my radiator - which is less than a year old, has a leak where the top meets the core...

So I bit the bullet and ordered an all aluminum 3 core radiator off ebay.

3 ROWS/CORE ALUMINUM RADIATOR - $150.00

The ad said, "some modification may be required for 289..."

So two days ago I went ahead and pulled the "old" one and the shroud and fan.







Compared to the new.









The first problem became obvious quickly. The bottom mounting bracket is entirely too small for the new radiator. Easy fix with a little bit of fabrication on the old one.

















That is where I stand for now. Tonight I'm going to put some rubber on the brackets and install them. Once that is done I can place the radiator in and start to figure out how I'm going to go about a shroud since my old one will not fit.

-Zig
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Haven't updated this in quite some time.

I was able to fabricate a shroud out of a piece of sheet metal using a bench vice, c clamps, a few boards and a jig saw. The hardest part was coming up with a way to cut the circle, ended up just bolting the piece to my bench and bolting the jig on the bench at the correct radius and just spinning it around.

I'm pretty happy with it, only cost $20 or so for the metal and bolts. I've had the radiator on for a few months now and it was the best choice I've made, on the highway when it's 95* outside it just bounces from 190* to 180* with a 180* thermostat.

Pictures below.

























-Zig
 
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