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68 ford torino 302 to 352.

2K views 8 replies 3 participants last post by  My427stang 
#1 ·
Hey everyone, I'm new to the forums and I needed some help with this engine I got. I bought it off someone and they told me it was a 351. I started doing some research and found out it was a 352. My question is can this 352 sit right into the torino? And what I want to know is what car do these engines normally go so I can know what parts to look for. Any help would be great!
 
#2 ·
Did someone call it a 352 because of the casting on the front of the block? It is likely a 390 if that is the case, as a 352 did not come in those cars, but 390s did. All FE engines other than later truck blocks and early HP versions had 352 cast in the front driver's side.

A 352 could have been swapped in, the way to tell the difference is to measure stroke through a spark plug hole. A 352 will have a 3.5 inch stroke a 390 will be 3.78, and in the unlikely event it is a 428, it'd be 3.98

Another indicator, although not certain like stroke, is the head casting number between the center 2 spark plugs. If they say C8AE-H, they are likely the stock cylinder heads for that car and it is likely a 390. However it is not a definite identification. 352s, if original, do not use that cylinder head, although they do bolt onto a 352.
 
#4 ·
Another thing I forgot to add on is that the owner had bored out the cylinder walls to .030 over. So just because it says 352 doesn't mean it is correct? Now if I'm searching for parts for this engine would I be searching for 390 parts? Also would a T5 be able to just bolt on to this engine? I want to do a T5 conversion for the torino. I appreciate the information, I might be asking a bunch of questions because I'm trying to get parts for the engine I just don't want to be buying the wrong parts.
 
#5 ·
It is likely a 390 .030 over for 396 inches, but there is really no way of knowing without measuring . The good thing is all FEs use most of the same external parts. The only real issue you will have is if you buy headers,. and we don't need to know 352 vs 390, we need to know the head casting number

As far as the T5, "bolting up" is a relative term. The input shaft is too long and either needs to be cut or use an expensive Quick Time bellhousing for the SBF input. A truck uses a deeper bell but it is not deep enough. Additionally, you will have to fab a crossmember and likely a driveshaft. Finally, you'll need to find the correct clutch linkage for the body which could be tough to find or potentially go hydraulic. The small block Ford bellhousing and cable clutch will not work.


Another option is a C-6 with a low gear set, it allows a deeper 1st gear and you can keep the tall rear gear. Not an overdrive for certain, but can be beneficial
 
#6 ·
I'd have to measure everything out to make sure I get the right specs for the head gasket. I've been searching up 390 parts and I see a lot of the parts fit the engine which is good. As far as the Transmission goes.. I want to put in a manual trans, a 5 speed. If I decide to go with the t5, I just need to do a few fabrications correct?
 
#7 ·
I told you already what big things you need to do.

- Correct bellhousing
- Cut input shaft of transmission
- Make crossmember and driveshaft
- Fabricate some sort of clutch if you don't have the factory linkage

Also, I didn't add

- Add a pilot bushing to crank
- Cut floor and figure out shifter
- Figure out the speedometer gear and cable required

I would consider it a big job. I don't know your experience level but it is not something a beginner would do easily

Also, keep in mind a T5 is not a very strong transmission, if you plan on building the engine up much, or driving it hard, expect it to eventually fail
 
#9 ·
I have done quite a few 5 speed installs, in vehicles ranging from late 50's Ford cars, 2WD pickups, and even my own car, and the 4x4 truck may get one. I am still on the fence of whether to go with that or a truck 5 speed..

Although it often is more money, the TKO-600 is generally is the best way to go when combining strength, gear ratio choice, cost and ease of install.

A worked T5 usually won't be as strong, but they do shift nice and they are a little simpler so they are easier to fit in the tranny hump. The cars I work on would break a T5 though and once you spend all the dough to build one and hope it doesn't break, we just won't take the gamble

As far as measuring, you'll need to, every step of the way. As I said, this isn't a bolt in
 
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