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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-14-2008, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch Pedal Activated Switch

The following modification illustrates how to mount a clutch pedal activated electrical switch. The switch could be used for various functions, from providing power to a device when the clutch pedal is raised such as activating 2 steps, line lock, data recorders, or it could be used to remove power from a device. For example it could prevent the starter from turning when the clutch pedal is not being depressed.

As usual, my example is for a 65/66’ Mustang but the procedure should also apply to several other cars with similar type pedal assemblies.

First I procured a common switch made by Micro Switch:







The Microswitch show above (bz-2rw80-a2) is readily available from various sources such as Allied Electronics for about $10:

Honeywell / Microswitch - BZ-2RW80-A2 - Allied Electronics

These are small, but heavy duty industrial switches that have a long lifespan. The switch shown offers both a normally open and a normally closed set of contacts. How it is wired is up to you. You will also need to find 2 small diameter bolts/screws that will pass through the holes in the Micro Switch plus some nuts that fit the bolts for attachment purposes. For my example, I used 6-32 1” long hex head bolts.

Next locate a 2 x 4” piece of metal, approximately 1/8” thick. For my example I used a .090 thick piece of aluminum (although I have also used .060 thick aluminum with success.) For this tech article I will call this the switch bracket.

The switch bracket will be attached to the clutch pedal stop bracket. The clutch pedal stop bracket is easily removed from the clutch/brake pedal support with a wrench. You will see this factory stop bracket on several of the following photos, but not by itself.

Take the piece of aluminum and fit it to the top of the clutch pedal stop bracket, opposite where the rubber pad is mounted. It will require a little notching to fit nicely. Then take two 3/8” self-tapping screws and attach the metal to the support. The short screws will not pass all the way through the rubber stop. Look on the right of the following pic and you will see the heads of these attaching screws.



Next temporarily mount the new assembly back on the clutch pedal support. I suggest using a normal nut instead of the factory locknut as you may need to test fit your parts several times. This is a temporary holding device so that you can determine where the switch needs to be located on the switch bracket. Position the switch on the underside of the switch bracket and make sure that the switch can contact the clutch pedal when the pedal is in the upward position. Then mark where the switch appears to mount the best and the switch paddle can touch the clutch pedal.



Once adequately marked, remove the clutch stop bracket from the clutch/brake pedal support. Next measure the distance between the mounting holes of the Micro switch. You will want to use this measurement to mark the switch bracket where the switch was positioned before. Once satisfied that the switch will mount in the predetermined position, drill holes for mounting. Because I wanted a highly adjustable switch, I drilled multiple holes in a straight line and ground them into a slot with a cutoff tool:



I then mounted the switch to the switch bracket using the 6-32 screws with the nuts being located on the upper side of the switch bracket.







The assembly is now ready to be mounted permanently to the clutch/brake support bracket under the dash using the factory bolt and locknut. Once the assembly is installed, the action of the switch can be tuned by either loosening the bolts and moving the switch along the slots or by bending the paddle that is part of the switch.













In conclusion, I have found that this switch is very useful for me at the dragstrip and it has helped improve my consistency off the line. I have mine wired to the 2 step module, the line lock, and the data acquisition tach. At launch the clutch pedal hits the switch paddle at a predetermined pedal height. The switch then turns the 2 step and line lock devices off plus it also starts the tach’s recording mode.
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Dennis

65' Stang Street/Strip. Dart 434W NA, Victor heads, G101A 4 Spd, 4:56 rear gear, on 93 octane pushing 3550lbs. [email protected]

Last edited by dennis111; 12-22-2008 at 04:53 PM.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-15-2008, 04:17 PM
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Re: Clutch Pedal Activated Switch

Once again, thanks for sharing your experiences. I think that is how this place "FORDMUSCLE" got started. Maybe you should start your own page, solicite some advertisers, do some product reviews (for free parts), get some sponsors for your efforts, start a forum, and get paid $$$. Love your write-ups.

I use a standard trans as well, if you have time can, you describe your starting line routine? I am interested in all that takes place once you head toward the burn out box. Also, do you have starting line help?

Once again thanks for sharing!!

don

68 Torino GT FB 351W 4spd
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-15-2008, 07:20 PM
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Re: Clutch Pedal Activated Switch

If I ever get my junk straightened out enough to get it to the track I will definetly be doing something similar to this..Nice writeup Dennis..


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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-16-2008, 05:48 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Clutch Pedal Activated Switch

Quote:
Originally Posted by cornhauler View Post
Once again, thanks for sharing your experiences. I think that is how this place "FORDMUSCLE" got started. Maybe you should start your own page, solicite some advertisers, do some product reviews (for free parts), get some sponsors for your efforts, start a forum, and get paid $$$. Love your write-ups.

I use a standard trans as well, if you have time can, you describe your starting line routine? I am interested in all that takes place once you head toward the burn out box. Also, do you have starting line help?

Once again thanks for sharing!!

don
Talk about giving me a big head!!!! Thanks for the good words Don.

I really don't have the time to host a real website. If I would have documented everything that I have done just to the GT through out the years, I'd have one big hum-dinger. A lot of people have helped me along the way and I try to reciprocate somewhat by passing on things that I have learned. An occasional positive comment helps me commit to writing future articles.

FM has rewarded me for past efforts (Thanks) and I appreciate that it offers us a way to share (show off? ) some of our work. Product reviews have been offered to me, but typically I have already advanced beyond the scope of those items and would be backtracking in order to write a review. I guess that I am pretty set in my ways.

Again, Thanks!

PS--PM sent.

Dennis

65' Stang Street/Strip. Dart 434W NA, Victor heads, G101A 4 Spd, 4:56 rear gear, on 93 octane pushing 3550lbs. [email protected]

Last edited by dennis111; 12-16-2008 at 05:57 AM.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-16-2008, 11:43 AM
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Re: Clutch Pedal Activated Switch

This is something I'm going to do. I like the idea and execution. I wasn't quite sure how I was going to do it until I read this article. This will be very helpful to me at the track. Thanks for sharing Dennis. You're a big help to your fellow manual transmission drag racers.

65 mustang fstbk, pump gas street friendly Camshaft Innovations cammed .060 over 289, face plated T5. 11.12 at 122 mph and 1.53 60 ft all motor.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-22-2008, 12:41 PM
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Re: Clutch Pedal Activated Switch

Dennis, nice write up, and pics.
I noted you ran a switch on your clutch in a prev thread, and I mentioned it to my buds when we were out in the shop putting in my roll bar (they keep telling me to put the automatic back in).
I have not checked this, but according to them, they told me if you run "electrical controls" it requires you run in a different "electronics" class.
Can you save me the research and tell if you had this problem.

short of that, I am in with this and plan on using it.


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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-22-2008, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Clutch Pedal Activated Switch

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gydyup View Post
Dennis, nice write up, and pics.
I noted you ran a switch on your clutch in a prev thread, and I mentioned it to my buds when we were out in the shop putting in my roll bar (they keep telling me to put the automatic back in).
I have not checked this, but according to them, they told me if you run "electrical controls" it requires you run in a different "electronics" class.
Can you save me the research and tell if you had this problem.

short of that, I am in with this and plan on using it.
Thanks guys.

Unfortunately different classes have different definitions of electrical controls. You would need to get clarification from the sanctioning body for the type of racing you are preparing for.

Typically though, a 2-step is not considered an electrical control and neither is a line lock. Both are permitted in NHRA to activate off the clutch pedal, at least in the classes that I am aware of. About the only questionable item that I know is the data recorder. My understanding is that the NHRA wants it to be on a separate switch. Why? I don't really know for sure and it doesn't matter to me as there is no such restriction at my IHRA track.

Dennis

65' Stang Street/Strip. Dart 434W NA, Victor heads, G101A 4 Spd, 4:56 rear gear, on 93 octane pushing 3550lbs. [email protected]

Last edited by dennis111; 12-22-2008 at 03:11 PM.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-22-2008, 03:08 PM
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Re: Clutch Pedal Activated Switch

thats the same set up I use on my 2 step, works great and I can adjust delay into it as well.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-22-2008, 04:08 PM
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Re: Clutch Pedal Activated Switch

Great article. I have to make a neutral safety switch in order to run at the local track. I know it's not typical for a standard trans but, some genius started his car at the track from the solenoid and he grabbed onto the bumper(yes, he was under the car). It dragged him several hundred yards before hitting another car. Now, you must physically be seated in the car to start it.
I will see if this method will work for me. What would I have to do to wire it up? I would imagine you would run a wire to the solenoid post that has an S on it. Not sure since automotive electrical is my weak point.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-22-2008, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Clutch Pedal Activated Switch

Quote:
Originally Posted by valleyfirearms View Post
Great article. I have to make a neutral safety switch in order to run at the local track. I know it's not typical for a standard trans but, some genius started his car at the track from the solenoid and he grabbed onto the bumper(yes, he was under the car). It dragged him several hundred yards before hitting another car. Now, you must physically be seated in the car to start it.
I will see if this method will work for me. What would I have to do to wire it up? I would imagine you would run a wire to the solenoid post that has an S on it. Not sure since automotive electrical is my weak point.
I always wondered what the story was behind you needing a neutral safety switch.

Yes, this setup would work as a manual transmission neutral safety switch and you are correct that you would be controlling the S terminal.

The wire originates at your ignition switch and IIRC it should be the red-blue wire. Cut the wire and run the side that comes from the ignition switch to the terminal on the Microswitch labeled "common." The other part of the wire (that you cut and goes to the solenoid) would get connected to the "closed" terminal. The starter will not turn unless the pedal is pushed and the key is turned. This will not affect any other circuit.

Dennis

65' Stang Street/Strip. Dart 434W NA, Victor heads, G101A 4 Spd, 4:56 rear gear, on 93 octane pushing 3550lbs. [email protected]

Last edited by dennis111; 12-23-2008 at 02:51 AM.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-23-2008, 11:21 AM
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Re: Clutch Pedal Activated Switch

Thanks Dennis!
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-18-2010, 09:01 AM
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Re: Clutch Pedal Activated Switch

Dennis,
Great article! I'm looking at putting this on my Fairlane. I just bought a MSD Digital 6 Plus 2-step ignition and want to take avantage of it. Not being a wiring guru by far, where do I run wires to and from? I have the pink wire on my MSD. What next? Sorry for the wiring stupidity.

I'm getting my car to run Pinks All Out at Maple Grove in May and want to get this hooked up and some practice using it before then.

Maybe I asked this before. Which part of the Amish Wonderland are you from? I'm in Lancaster County (Denver). Which tracks do you frequent? I got to Cecil, Numidia and Maple if I have to.

Doug
1966 Fairlane 390/4Spd
1964 Mercury Comet 427FE Pro Street
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-18-2010, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Clutch Pedal Activated Switch

[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Dennis/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-11.png[/IMG][IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Dennis/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-12.png[/IMG][IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Dennis/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-13.png[/IMG][IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Dennis/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-14.png[/IMG]Glad to here that you made it into Pinks all out. I tried, but couldn't get through.

Sorry but has been a few years since I installed the MSD/2 step and I have long since forgotten what went where.

The instructions should give you a good idea of what the MSD needs to be happy with your combination. Mine was a work in progress, I started using the MSD in tandem with a duraspark distributor and control module. Later I eliminated the control module and used the MSD with the Duraspark. Now I also use an MSD distributor. The 2 step was added later as an add-on. That just adds to the confusion in my mind.

Mine is the older style 6AL and it did not have a pink wire (as far as I can remember. Looking at the digital 6al instructions, it doesn't appear to have a pink wire either. I was looking at page 4 of the 6421 instructions.

I live about an hour due south of State College in Huntingdon county. I race at Beaver Springs and have been to Quarter Aces in Carlisle a few times. I have not made it to Numida yet, but have friends that race there too. They live much closer to it than I do. (Sunbury/Williamsport.)

Dennis

65' Stang Street/Strip. Dart 434W NA, Victor heads, G101A 4 Spd, 4:56 rear gear, on 93 octane pushing 3550lbs. [email protected]
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