Those B&M are ok , I have used them but if using the Dacron type they need changing regularly. You can get a gauze type also , they are a torqueflite part.
Or you could use a C6 4x4 filter with he rubber grommet and make up an extension tube. I'll see if i can add a pic of one I did.
That large cooler is certainly not excessive IMO.
The R servo certainly isn't necessary , there are good factory servo's also that will do you well. If you are building the trans look at the Alto 2.5" wide band is a nice addition.
Servo lever also can be changed but that will depend on the servo you have .
Theshift kit is a definite. A stock C6 shifts way too soft. The Transgo SK-6 kit does well . It gives a nice crisper shift without being harsh. They give a choice of 3 springs for the accumulator , i like the setup with a single spring for the shortest shift .
Type F fluid = YES
I've not used the different ratio kits . Some guys say they are good .. Not too sure myself. The factory gearsets will give you good service if in good condition
What I would look at for towing is to make sure you get 5 clutches in each pack. A stock top gear only has 3. There are companies that sell a drum ready to go like Broader performance or you can machine yours
Thanks for the reply. The filter is a Torqueflite style? I didn't bother looking that up I was doing browser searches for C6 Extension Mesh Filters with no luck. I will give that a look. I have no problem running an extension to get the filter as close to the bottom of the pan as possible. I just hate the fuzzy transmission filters from past experience. Cant do service at recommended intervals have to do them at half intervals as they clog up easily.
On the B&M Pan, I don't really like the pan to be honest but I am quite limited on aluminum pans with a temp sensor fitting. I found one aluminum pan that was made by PML for $200 but you have to pay extra for the bung drilled out. I don't know if I like the thought of paying $200 then drilling the bung out myself which I can do. The only draw back is I have to crawl under my truck to make sure the cross member will clear the pan I think it will as the B&M has people grinding fins down to get the B&M one to fit.
The cooler, I just am not sure on it. Ive never added a cooler but considering the rebuild and changes done to this transmission with a Hughe`s converter I figured let me add an auxiliary one after the factory radiator cooler. I can figure a way to mount the larger one, might have to move it further away from the radiator as my truck has dealer installed AC and the condenser is a smallish universal style one that covers the passengerside half of the radiator. I will be mounting the trans cooler on the driverside as close to the radiator as possible.
The R-Servo is what I was wondering about as well. Lots of people are like oh you need to upgrade to that for towing. But the reading ive done is that the R-Servo was found on C6`s behind big blocks. My truck isn't a big block, its a small 302 which is in the process of being pulled to have a newer '96 Explorer 302 transplanted into for the higher compression, better heads, and the late model truck roller cam. Even then I was questioning if a R-Servo was really needed on a engine factory rated at 210hp and 280trq.
I prefer running what the transmission calls for but my '78 Mercury is a FMX transmission and calls for Type F so that would save me a lot of room only having to stock Type F fluid.
My main concern with doing a planetary gear set change is the truck currently has 31x10.50-15 BFG KO2`s AT`s all around. Stock tires from the factory were P215R75-15 which is roughly 28" tall. The BFG`s stated by BFG`s website is 30.7" tall. This here changed my stock 2.75:1 ring and pinion gear to around a 2.45:1 effective ratio. To correct this I am purchasing a Currie 9" third member with TruTrak for $1,500 that is a 3.25:1 ratio. This with the 30.7" tall BFG`s would put my ratio at 2.90:1. To help with towing and pulling if I swap the stock planetary gear set from the stock 2.46:1 first and 1.46:1 second to the wide ratio of 2.72:1 first and 1.54:1 second would improve my over all ratio from 7.13:1 effective ratio in 1st gear to 7.88:1 effective ratio in 1st gear. I know its not a whole lot but I wonder if the $400 - $600 price tag I see on the wide ratio set is worth it for the benefit it would give me in towing and acceleration.
I do mostly highway driving of 60 - 75 mph even though everyone else is going 85 - 90 mph. This old truck cant keep up due to the aerodynamics that is horrible on it as well as it being a C6 transmission with no over drive. This was one way I figured I could get as much improvement acceleration/towing out of my setup while still being able to go highway speeds of 75 mph with engine speed under 3,000 RPM. Transmission has to be done anyways as I figured my converter has about 17.8% slip in it compared to a new converter being around 3% to 5% slip. Think the setup was over stressed towing a tandem axle dumpster trailer for years as a work truck.
So its not like I am pulling the trans just to do these upgrades, ill be pulling the trans to replace the worn out converter and have the transmission gone through. While I was at it would be when I do the upgrades. I saw the wide ratio set with a 10% increase to first gear and 5% increase to second gear and thought hell that should help my old truck out turning the big tires along with the gear ratio change from 2.75:1 to 3.25:1.
On the clutch drum I will make a note of that. The old timer that will be doing my transmission rebuild hes built some performance transmissions before, I will be letting him do the build but I will be buying the parts to make life easier on the guy seeing as hes 87 right now. I see Broader Performance is in Texas and I checked out the C6`s they have ready to go, the 750 HP wide ratio one looks like a good one for me and pricing isn't too bad but he doesn't have a listing for a SBF application, only the BBF`s. I need to check with the local guy but he quoted me $750 to pull my Ford-O-Matic and do a straight rebuild excluding cost of hard parts that might need to be replaced. I figured a bench job C6 shouldn't be over $1,000 for a rebuild and the upgraded parts should put me around $1,500 in the end.