There are some aftermarket 9" rear brake kits available. A few are designed to work on multiple housing ends. I used to sell a kit from Afco to my clients who wanted an 8" kit, that could also be used on a 9" if they upgraded later.

( I assume it's a 9", but perhaps it's not? )

I cannot speak to what OEM front brake kits are available, without doing more research.

Researching the big box speed shops like Summit Racing will give you some quick ideas.

If you want a more specific kit, then identifying which housing end pattern you have currently, as well as the axle offset. [Distance from housing end to outside of axle flange. That can usually run between a distance of 2.25" to 2.5".
There is 1 offset that's in-between as I recall. If your not completely sure whether you have a 9" Ford rear-end or not, you can take a deep well 9/16" socket (needs to be long like a deepwell).

You put it up onto the very bottom nut that holds the center section in place. So out if the 10 studs holding the 3rd member in, your looking to put the deep well socket on the nut at about 6 o'clock. If the socket WILL NOT go on straight, it's a 9". If the socket does go on straight, it's an 8". If there are no nuts & studs holding in a 3rd member (doubful) than you have neither an 8" or 9". That might be a Salsbury if memory serves me.

Good luck, & sorry I couldn't be of much help.

BTW, as you likely know, Disc brakes on front are much more a worth while install than in the back. I only mention all this incase your planning to swap out both ends to disc.

I can't speak to the Front hardware available using an OEM brake setup from another Ford vehicle of similar era, but I can tell you it's getting VERY hard to find the Ford OEM rear brakes, from discs offered on stock vehicles. They will likely require swapping other components as well,, like the axles, due to the standoff distances being different.

If your very handy at machining & reworking bracketry, than most anything is possible of coarse. When you consider your time to have value, then it can be better to buy what fits straight out of a box.

 

What you have worked fine in the day, and can again if you go through it, repairing and adjusting properly. Quickest and cheapest option compared to a conversion, even buying everything new. If you're using its condition as a motivator for a conversion, that's a different story and up to you, your preferences and judgment.

 

Thanks for the feedback. I personally don't remember how well the brakes worked, but my dad and stepmom both drove the car back in the day. I have an opportunity to buy a SSBC front conversion kit , he wants $600 for the set up A152 Front Disc Conversion Brake Kit, Ford Galaxie-Non Power . This is for non power brakes, where as mine are power, I understand I can still use the non power master? I'm also hearing that the original 4 drums are actually pretty good? I guess I can go either way, but will need to address both front and back before I get it on the road.

 

Leed brakes has a couple conversion kits depending on if you want power or manual brakes. I've been really impressed with them for my 67 when I went to front power discs.

 

This is for non power brakes, where as mine are power, I understand I can still use the non power master?

Ask SSBC to be sure how theirs fit.

I'm also hearing that the original 4 drums are actually pretty good?

IME, 4-wheel drum brakes in good condition and adjustment work fine, and can lock all 4 tires up. You can't get more stopping once the tires lock, so IMO the answer is yes, at least to the point that discs are not required for driver comfort or safety. My experience is very good with drum brakes racing Stock class and brackets over 120 mph, and disc is for specialty use (road track racing, off-roading, heavy towing, etc), or appearance, and slightly 'simpler' future brake jobs. However, you will likely spend several brake jobs of work and much higher cost to get the cheapest front disc kit on, and you still have to do the rears, so keep that in-mind.

I have no dog in this, and I use what works for the intended use. You use whatever makes you happy, and I'm just pointing-out possible factors in your decision.

I have not run the parts cost for full replacement of everything on all four at today's prices, but would estimate about $150-175 to replace everything but drums and booster (shoes, cylinders, hoses, master, all spring/clip hardware, etc) from sources like RockAuto. That should get most cars going well. If based only on what is needed, then perhaps far less, and most "normal brake jobs" are under $100. Test if the booster is needed (±$80-100) or all new drums (±$150), just for context, replacing everything but the hard line system. Have fun!

 

For what it's worth, I'm happy with the 4 wheel drums on my '64. It started out power but the booster failed on a Route 66 trip and when we got home I removed the booster and single pot master cylinder and converted to a dual master cylinder. The rest of the parts (pedal assembly, wheel cylinders, etc.) were the same from the factory on 64's, power or manual. I had to buy an adjustable push rod and some ni-copp brake line to hook up the dual master. My first Galaxie in high school was manual from the factory and was my daily driver through college so I wasn't worried about manual 4 wheel drums.

Don't neglect the rubber hoses. After 50+ years they will deteriorate on the inside, restricting flow. When you apply the brakes, the pressure will force the fluid through. But when you release the brakes, they stay on to a degree, causing the shoes to drag.

Pat

 

go with the discs. its safer/simpler end of the day. I laid out 1k for my leeds kit and had it installed, in one day, with basic tools and no lift. My falcon has 4 wheel drums and while they are 'ok' and work 'as intended'.. but the roadways are different now than they used to be when these care were new as are peoples driving habits... and the falcon will get a disc change sooner than later.

 

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I used a conversion kit from Scarebird on my 64 Comet that used their adapter, plus over the counter rotors, calipers, and hoses that I bought from Rockauto. Made the conversion very reasonable. However, I just read that they had been recently bought out, and new management is still ramping production back up.

 

I used a kit from autocityclassic.com. Drum brakes are fine, too.

 

Look at your problem another way. Do a search on all the issues others have had converting to discs on this site. I think you will find numerous problems. This is the one issue that has more issues than any other I have read about. So for cost and simplicity, PSIG has it right, repair the four wheel power drums. You will learn a lot and they will stop your car fine as intended. If you want to spend a ton, do all the research, work and then solve all the problems you will encounter along the way, go for discs. Back when these cars were new (1968 mandated) Ford used only front discs. I have driven both and drums ( if adjusted and working properly) work 95% as good.

 

So, what do you guys like for disc brakes on a 63. I'm just getting the car roadworthy, and my brake pedal is hard as a rock, with little stopping power. Currently has 4 drums, power booster, and small single pot master. I want to say it all worked well enough back in the day when the booster was installed, but it's been sitting for years. I don't need to brake the bank with the most expensive kit, just a good get me down the road and give me the ability to stop would be great. Thanks,

V-8 or 6? There are conversion for both. I have a '65 Ranchero originally 289/ 4-speed. I used Granada parts for the conversion. I also used the Granada front sway bar because it is thicker. Note on the sway bar; needed to space the mounting up to not contact the control arm. I have not checked lately but Scarebird (in WA state) on ebay had reasonable disc conversions for many cars. For a master cylinder my go to is from ~1974 Maverick. Also Granada conversion on my 1957 Ranch Wagon.