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Discussion starter · #421 · (Edited)
So satisfying to see the finished work. I have to sand it smooth, it bugs me to know that underneath the stitch is visible. Looking forward to your next post!
Hello badhrsi,

Well there's two paths the OCD :) can follow with something like this. The first path is along the lines of your thoughts where it would be better to have the panel seamlessly reintegrated. The other OCD path is along the lines of panel strength. Anytime you finish grinding and feathering in a weld it's inevitable you are making the panel thinner than it was originally. It's only 18 gauge steel and pretty thin to begin with. Leaving the weld on the other side actually bolsters the strength by adding extra thickness to it. If you were to grind and feather both sides the area in and around the weld that entire area would be thinner then the original piece and weaker.

Just thoughts, I'm not advocating one way is better than the other, it just depends on what the finished product is envisioned to be. If it's a show car/trailer queen, then I'd be inclined to finish both sides of a panel repair, however this is going to be a daily driver and will inevitably be run down again over the course of time so I'd rather have the extra strength at the expense of a bad visual in a place where few will see :)

Cheers
 
Hello badhrsi,

Well there's two paths the OCD :) can follow with something like this. The first path along is along the lines of your thoughts where it would be better to have the panel seamlessly reintegrated. The other OCD path is along the lines of panel strength. Anytime you finish grinding and feathering in a weld it's inevitable you are making the panel thinner than it was originally. It's only 18 gauge steel and pretty thin to begin with. Leaving the weld on the other side actually bolsters the strength by adding extra thickness to it. If you were to grind and feather both sides the area in and around the weld that entire area would be thinner then the original piece and weaker.

Just thoughts, I'm not advocating one way is better than the other, it just depends on what the finished product is envisioned to be. If it's a show car/trailer queen, then I'd be inclined to finish both sides of a panel repair, however this is going to be a daily driver and will inevitably be run down again over the course of time so I'd rather have the extra strength at the expense of a bad visual in a place where few will see :)

Cheers
That is an excellent point....
 
This thing is rust free by salt belt standards. Glad to see you are getting every last spec of rust out of it though.

I'd be more afraid of getting a top coat to stick to por15. I've had great success with it over the years as a chassis and under body coating. Never tried putting anything over it. Heard a lot of horor stories but those may have been from poor prep as well.
On my 65 I plan to use it on the floors and then raptor line the floors while still in the recoat window.
Top coat surfaces will get industrial PPG epoxy primer.
 
Discussion starter · #424 ·
This thing is rust free by salt belt standards. Glad to see you are getting every last spec of rust out of it though.

I'd be more afraid of getting a top coat to stick to por15. I've had great success with it over the years as a chassis and under body coating. Never tried putting anything over it. Heard a lot of horor stories but those may have been from poor prep as well.
On my 65 I plan to use it on the floors and then raptor line the floors while still in the recoat window.
Top coat surfaces will get industrial PPG epoxy primer.
Howdy Touring919,

Prep work is fundamental when using expensive automotive 2 stage or really expensive 3 stage paints or even the cheapest oil based paint found at Wally World, Home Depot, Menards, etc. I met a fellow once at a local car meet who was timid by a paint gun and was on a budget and he painted his little MG with Rustoleum and roller. He applied 3 coats of Royal Blue, let it dry for a couple of weeks in the sun, then spent a month of Sundays wet sanding it all down and polishing. The paint work was unbelievably good. He block sanded and the exterior was a sheet of glass. I have a couple pictures of it I was so impressed. If I can find them I'll post them just to show what thinking out of the box can do, well, when done rationally :)

I would be lying if I didn't have some trepidation in trying the POR15 as a sealer then painting over it. If it wasn't for some empirical evidence from one of my friends who paints at the high end body shop that offers lifetime guarantees I wouldn't have elected to try it. He's had success with it and that's a big gamble to try with a lifetime guarantee on expensive restorations and normal daily driver repairs. I am using the same paint his place uses which is just Martin Senor automotive paints.

Cheers
 
Discussion starter · #427 ·
Quarter Panel Drudgery Part 6

Right O' time to get started on the outer wheel house. Yikes this one is going to be tough because of the tight spaces due to the fact the replacement quarter is from a 4 door post car. I was dreading this one.




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I spent some time studying this trying to figure out what to keep, what to fix, and what to cut.


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I cut out the badly rotted sections and the distorted sections.


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It's the same old adage of measure 17 times, cut once.


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The rudimentary fixture, I had to use C clamps in the far right as the panel clamps wouldn't fit. You do what you have to do.


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This takes bloody forever to do.


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It's in there.


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Since I smoothed out the drop off I figured I'd do this for good measure.


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Now it has a good base for the quarter to go back on.


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I also filled these holes, there were three holes here.

Continued in next post
 
Discussion starter · #428 ·
Quarter Panel Drudgery Part 7




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There was a tiny rust hole to the right of the trim holes as well.




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This is weld through primer and the outer wheel house graft was spot welded to the drop off graft.




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This is the first round of fitting and cutting. This is tedious.




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Once it seemed ok, it all had to come off.


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More weld through primer.


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The final fitment.

I want to mention one thing about the newer Hobo Freight panel clamps. They stink.


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I had to buy some more and wasn't very happy at the quality.


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The clamp on the right is an old Hobo Freight clamp and it's relatively flat across the surface. The new one on the left is really bad. I had to spend about 3 hours and fix them all before I could use them.


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The tack welding begins.

Continued in next post.
 
Discussion starter · #429 ·
Quarter Panel Drudgery Part 8




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I still have much welding to do, but it's in securely. The work on the outer quarter panel alone was about 8 hours of labour so far to this point. It's slowly getting there.




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Just a recap of what was on there.

It is interesting the little massaging that needed to be done because the stampings were a little different to get the body lines to match up. As I previously mentioned this rear quarter section is off a 4 door post car. Ford seemed to make upteen million 4 door post cars and they are potential source for body panels for the 2 door models.

More to come.

Cheers
 
Discussion starter · #431 ·
Outstanding work! The fitment is perfect
Thank you badhrsi for the kind compliment. I'll be honest I was stressed out over screwing this up as I've never tried to graft in such a large piece over a relatively low crown surface. I really do take my hat off to those who do this kind of work on a daily basis. One small mistake could take countless hours to sort out.

Cheers
 
Discussion starter · #432 · (Edited)
Headlamps Part 1

Just a side project that needed to be done. Since this '66 galaxie 500 XL shares the same headlamps as our '66 LTD I thought I would do them both. So here we go.




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I started with the bulb retainers. I had a bunch of these headlamps so in order to pick the best parts, they all have to be cleaned and inspected. In other words loads of polishing is in order.




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I did the 9 best rings then picked the best 8 of 9.




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The same deal with the bezels.


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Then I found even more of these after I shot this.


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I stripped and powder coated the support plates for the headlamps as well as all the headlamp buckets. Now for the headlamps and buckets. The headlamps I am using is a composite glass and aluminum assembly. The only problem is the aftermarket composite headlamps only come in Low/High so I had to use the extra low/high buckets from all the spare headlamps assemblies and ditch the high beam only buckets because they are keyed to the bucket differently.

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I originally bought these to use a long while back as these were the only composites I could find at the time. I thought these were too garish to have exposed all the time so I ended up using these on the '68 XL, since when they are off the headlamp doors are closed and hide these.

Then I found composites that look more like the original style headlamps so I used those.


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The one thing that dies in these headlamps are the plastic threads for the adjusters. These license plate nylon threaded blocks work really well for this.


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Just make sure you get the one on the right and not the left as they sell both. The one on the left is cheap crap.


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Snap them in from the backside and Bob's your Aunty. I like to run a tap through them to make threading the adjuster bolts in easier.


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Agh the aftermarket strikes back again. Sooooooooooo when you use the bulbs as is they do not sit level in the headlamp bucket.

Continued in next post.
 
Discussion starter · #433 · (Edited)
Headlamps Part 2




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Take a look at the right and you'll see how they sit, they are tilted in the bucket and it looks cheesy. The headlamps on the left are corrected.




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To correct them or clock them a few degrees I had to relocate the hump to the left in the locating tabs.


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New stainless hardware as the old chrome screws were pitted and chewed up.


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And here's two sets ready to go. At first glance you wouldn't know they are composite headlamps with 100 watt low beams and 140 watt high beams. They use standard H4 bulbs. And yes according to FMVSS 108 you can run 4 low beams if you wish. About the only limits are the intensity at certain beam angles from a federal point of view.

I run these same wattage bulbs in the '68 XL and I love the bright projection on the roads even on low beam, sadly it just keeps up with new modern vehicles for low beams but enters stupid bright on high beams with 540 watts. You do have to use ceramic sockets with the high wattage lamps.

More to come.

Cheers
 
Discussion starter · #437 ·
Very nice work as always DXL.

I have to ask, what brand are those composite lamps and where do you get 140 watt high beam H4 bulbs?
Hello galaxiex,

The headlamps I bought were from 1 PAIR 5 3/4" ROUND H4 9003 BULB CONVERSION HEADLIGHT REPLACE H5001 & H5006 HR05 | eBay

and the 140/100 watt bulbs were from 12V 140/100W H4 9003 HB2 Halogen High Watt Headlights bulb 140/100 ( 1 Bulb ) | eBay

I also use the same 140/100 watt bulbs in that crappy 1979 Dodge Power Wagon we have, only it uses the 4 rectangular composites instead of the round ones; same H4 bulb. Tis as silly bright as the lamps in the '68 XL. Just keep in mind you have to use ceramic sockets because the extreme heat and also relays with a circuit breaker to the battery as you will cycle the breakers in the cars headlamps switch if you try to pull that amount of current through the factory wiring and switch.

Cheers
 
Discussion starter · #439 ·
This was a fun Sunday morning serial read... too bad for me that it ended here.

How's it going with the '65, @DesertXL ?
This was a fun Sunday morning serial read... too bad for me that it ended here.

How's it going with the '65, @DesertXL ?
Hello Jonnyuma,

I haven't been on the forums in awhile, in fact this is the first time in months. I do have a website that has everything I've done on here plus more if you're interested. It's galaxieworks.com. Unfortunately between the hot summer and the '68 XL needing attention in its long road to recovery the '66 galaxie 500 XL and the '66 LTD were set aside.

Although I am working on the power windows for all three cars. Long story short, those Dennis Carpenter reproduction window rollers are too soft and have noticeable wear after 2 dozen cycles. I could not find another manufacturer so I am making 72 rollers out of nylon 6 and nylon 6/6 (copolymer) to replace all the rollers in all three cars after having made prototypes and performed accelerated life testing on them of which proved significantly better in wear than the Dennis Carpenter rollers.

What a massive time vampire that's been. Then the brand new ACI window motors have problems all their own and required reworking as well.

Unfortunately the state of aftermarket parts continues to decline for these old Fords. Most places offering reproduction parts hedge their low quality products on the fact that most people do not daily drive their old classic car so the part will not see regular use and will last a decent amount of time if the car is a Sunday driver at best.

That doesn't cut it here. Those parts have to last at least 10 years of daily use and abuse. Most of those old Ford windows be it power or manual lasted 40 plus years with thousands of cycles. To have a brand new roller with noticeable wear after 2 dozen cycles or a brand new motor start knocking very loud after 100 cycles is quite bluntly pure crap.

It's practically a full time job manufacturing or re-manufacturing brand new parts, however we're making darn good progress. :)

Cheers
 
I could not find another manufacturer so I am making 72 rollers out of nylon 6 and nylon 6/6 (copolymer) to replace all the rollers in all three cars after having made prototypes and performed accelerated life testing on them of which proved significantly better in wear than the Dennis Carpenter rollers.
As one does... :) :)

Wow, just wow! Always love reading your posts. Glad to see you are still working on the Galaxies but wish your time didn't have to be spent on side projects such as this.

Pat
 
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