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I never really looked at those panel clamps before. Seen them on here being used but never understood HOW they worked. With your comparison of the old and the new I got a good look at them and now see what holds them in place and how they work. Not exactly what you were discussing but it was an unintended lesson for the unknowing like me!! 😁

And I might add, you did a great job on all of it. And tons of polishing too on the other parts!

You mention the heat from the headlights and to use ceramic. I picked up a set of Hella headlights and relays but never really thought to look into if they get hot or not. Any thoughts on those type headlights? Read a couple reviews and saying they weren't that bright. But maybe the person using them expected them to be like some of the new cars out there, who knows! But anything brighter than my stock ones is a plus for me. Just wondering about the heat thing now that you mentioned it on the type of headlights you got.

This is what I got.
 
Discussion starter · #442 ·
I never really looked at those panel clamps before. Seen them on here being used but never understood HOW they worked. With your comparison of the old and the new I got a good look at them and now see what holds them in place and how they work. Not exactly what you were discussing but it was an unintended lesson for the unknowing like me!! 😁

And I might add, you did a great job on all of it. And tons of polishing too on the other parts!

You mention the heat from the headlights and to use ceramic. I picked up a set of Hella headlights and relays but never really thought to look into if they get hot or not. Any thoughts on those type headlights? Read a couple reviews and saying they weren't that bright. But maybe the person using them expected them to be like some of the new cars out there, who knows! But anything brighter than my stock ones is a plus for me. Just wondering about the heat thing now that you mentioned it on the type of headlights you got.

This is what I got.
Hello ShotRod64,

First, thank you for the kind words. About the headlamps, I had a chance to look at the link you provided. So a couple of things I noticed from the description and the reviews. The key note is they do not appear to be made in Germany even though they still say made in Germany. I have bought Hella headlamps about 15-16 years ago for an aftermarket headlamp assembly for the 1994-1996 Chevrolet Impala SS, those were very good headlamps. If the product isn't made in Germany anymore, but still say made in Germany you have to question the quality of these headlamps. I mean if they can't be bothered to change the molds to reflect where they are actually built, who knows what other corners they are cutting.

The second thing I noticed is that the certification in Amazon says they are legal for road use only in Canada. It's hard to judge from the pictures but I couldn't see the "DOT". The U.S.A. federal lighting code is FMVSS 108 and all vehicle lighting must adhere to that specification sheet. However, here's the thing with aftermarket, most really do not care about legal matters or testing. The clear headlamps I installed in the 1968 XL say "DOT" but I'm pretty certain the beam pattern doesn't comply on low beam settings. It's far too bright on the sides and I do get flashed once in a while on regular 2 low (I have 2 low, 4 low and 4 high). Then again new cars and especially trucks have intense side beams as well, so maybe they are not that far off.

Anyone can make something that says "DOT" but it's meaningless if it actually doesn't meet the testing standards. I've pointed this out with brake hoses on this post when I was covering the installation of the rear disc brake conversion. The hoses I bought had printed DOT but I provide documentation showing why they are not indeed compliant.

As for the ceramic sockets, you do not need them for the usual ~55 watt H4 bulbs. I am using 100 watt low, 140 watt high beam H4 bulbs, those will require ceramic sockets for extended use (night time cross country driving). My regular outside low beams are 200 watts (100w per bulb/side) plus I can also turn on the inside low beams for 400 watts of low beams. FMVSS 108 does allow you use all 4 vertical or horizontally mounted headlamps for the low beam as long as the intensity is not exceed by the limits of the beam pattern in the document. Then of course it's 560 watts on high beams as all 4 naturally turn on anyway.

Now 560 watts is really bright for halogen bulbs. I live out in the rural areas and at night on two lane roads with the high beams on it's akin to landing a Leer Jet as the landing lights are just as bright as the '68 XL's headlamps now.

If you go with an LED headlamp you will not need a ceramic socket as in no way will the LED get that hot. The LED would fail long before you melt the socket if it tried running that hot. My only concern is with longevity with LED's. OEM's have elaborate heat sinks built into the headlamp cluster on newer vehicles to expel the heat. Most of these retrofit bulbs have limited heat sinks and some have some cheap crappy fan that's exposed to the elements and good luck with that I think to myself when I see those.

I drive quite a bit and I do not need things constantly failing, especially headlamps. I use the halogens because they are designed to run hot, halogens actually need to run hot to complete the halogen cycle for longevity. You can look up the halogen cycle to further understand that rather ingenious concept.

However back to your situation. I think with just ~55watt H4 bulbs in a modern composite housing (glass and aluminum) you will see a marked improvement in illumination. One of my local car chums has a '68 Cougar and he installed lamps similar to what you are looking at and he said it's much better than the old sealed beam headlamp. Now he did use relays and bypass the headlamp switch as far as the headlamp current is concerned. I am not sure about the generation of your galaxie 500 but starting in 1965 through 1968 Ford used, in my opinion, a smaller than required wire and on the XL I had nearly 2 volts of drop between the battery and the old original headlamps. A 2 volt drop is substantial for a tungsten bulb because the relationship of brightness to voltage is nonlinear.

Installing relays and of course circuit breakers for safety mitigates that drop and ensures the new lamps will operated at the best possible brightness.

This was rather lengthy but I hope it helps shed some light on the topic <-- pun intended. :)

Cheers
 
Some of it even made sense! I have a '64 and will be using relays and I think going with inline fuses. Have a friend that did his '63 wagon this way and always driving around and no issues so I trust that I won't either! Eventually I'll get to that project I hope. Have a list of things auto and non-auto to do and just not getting anywhere. Even a real convertible top I think I might want one day and the next wonder why when I never put what I have up. But that's the least of my projects really other than the price is not going any lower.

Here in Washington state there is no law for anything right now really. Green, blue, red headlights or halo lights, speeding, no tabs, no plates..... If you didn't shoot at someone, under the suspicion of DUI or armed robbery/car jacking they can't even pursue you if you don't pull over. And I'm not even making this up!! It's real and it's like the old west around here with people not even asking on FB if anyone heard the gun shots cause we've all gotten used to it now. Maybe it's a ricer with the fart pipes or maybe it's a gun, eh, just another day in paradise. Especially in Seattle/Tacoma areas. Even had bullets hit the tree above me as someone drove down the main street shooting just for the fun of it!🙄 So any regular colored headlights, even bright etc won't even get them to blink. And there's not enough of them since this started. Half the force or more retired, quit or moved somewhere where they can actually do their job rather than fishing, catch and release.
 
Discussion starter · #444 ·
Some of it even made sense! I have a '64 and will be using relays and I think going with inline fuses. Have a friend that did his '63 wagon this way and always driving around and no issues so I trust that I won't either! Eventually I'll get to that project I hope. Have a list of things auto and non-auto to do and just not getting anywhere. Even a real convertible top I think I might want one day and the next wonder why when I never put what I have up. But that's the least of my projects really other than the price is not going any lower.

Here in Washington state there is no law for anything right now really. Green, blue, red headlights or halo lights, speeding, no tabs, no plates..... If you didn't shoot at someone, under the suspicion of DUI or armed robbery/car jacking they can't even pursue you if you don't pull over. And I'm not even making this up!! It's real and it's like the old west around here with people not even asking on FB if anyone heard the gun shots cause we've all gotten used to it now. Maybe it's a ricer with the fart pipes or maybe it's a gun, eh, just another day in paradise. Especially in Seattle/Tacoma areas. Even had bullets hit the tree above me as someone drove down the main street shooting just for the fun of it!🙄 So any regular colored headlights, even bright etc won't even get them to blink. And there's not enough of them since this started. Half the force or more retired, quit or moved somewhere where they can actually do their job rather than fishing, catch and release.
Hello ShotRod64,

I understand about the political problems areas of this country are facing. Believe me New Mexico in some regards isn't much better. In Albuquerque, it's a free for all. It's a joke and it's up to you to keep you safe. However in the rural area's it's a different story. ABQ may be a liberal city; where the homeless camp everywhere as well as being a drug and crime infested craphole, but I'm happy to report that the rural areas are very conservative. I'm also happy to report that our local rural police department doesn't put up with anything. From speeding to having a tail lamp or headlamp out, you will get a ticket. Don't signal a turn at a stop, you will get a ticket.

A few words about upgrading the headlamps. Since headlamps are considered part of the safety equipment on vehicles they need to be on automatically resetting circuit breakers not only for your safety, but others. That is unless you do have a problem and the fuse blows and you plan to immediately stop driving until its fixed, even if that means camping on the side of the road. Even your '64 has automatically resetting circuit breakers for the running lamps and headlamps, as well as the horn, etc. built into the factory headlamp switch.

It's just something to keep in mind. Another example are the wipers. The wiper motor itself has a circuit breaker built into it even though there may be an actual wiper fuse in the fuse panel. The glass fuse is rated higher than the circuit breaker and is only there to protect the wiring against a gross wiring fault (ie, wire shorting to body). The circuit breaker inside the wiper motor will trip long before the fuse blows if the wipers are restricted from movement. An example would be icing. When ice has bound the wipers and the wipers turned on, the circuit breaker will continue to cycle on and off until the defroster has done its job removed enough ice for the wipers to break free; the wiper motor will automatically restart. That's the idea with safety equipment. If the glass fuse blew every time the wipers were restricted, you'd find yourself in an eventual pickle.

Cheers
 
Discussion starter · #445 ·
Hello all,

For those interested in rebuilding the power window regulators or even perhaps adding power windows to 1965-1968 full size models and this covers every single body type (2 door conv/coupe/sedan and 4 door coupe/sedan) then feel free to read on using the link. This is a long post on my website with some interesting turn of events regarding the aftermarket repair parts.

I cover the differences in the power window regulators for the '65-'68 years as well as the body types. This is because the 3 old Ford's I have require all the different possible power window regulators offered for the full size line up from '65-'68.

http://galaxieworks.com/pages/articles/a03093/ford_1966_galaxie_500xl_rebuild_pt93.html

Hope you enjoy and there's much more to come.

Cheers
 
Interesting read. I know the '65ish regulators are tough to find but weren't the same motors used into the 1980's?
Seems like I pulled motors from a Lincoln Town Car or Ford Crown Victoria to install into my 1965 LTD.
 
Discussion starter · #447 ·
Interesting read. I know the '65ish regulators are tough to find but weren't the same motors used into the 1980's?
Seems like I pulled motors from a Lincoln Town Car or Ford Crown Victoria to install into my 1965 LTD.
Hello LARSOFVT,

Yuppers those motors were used into the 80's and even in the early 90's on a few models. Sad part is there isn't many of the 80's or 90's cars in the junkyards anymore. I remember 10 years ago I would trip over full size 90's Chevy's, Buicks, Fords, Mercury's and Lincolns. There were so many LT1's to choose from, now there's none at all locally. You have to look for the car and buy the whole car for parts from a private sale.

Cheers
 
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