Not that there is anything wrong with what you are thinking, but is sometimes cheaper to buy a whole second auto than to find everything one piece at a time. It'll take some time you realise. You may also obtain some "Pooped out" parts and try and refurbish these is you are handy.

I got a 1966 with factory four speed and even locating a seal for around the yoke took me five days locally. Most of the parts houses around here (and we have a lot of these for population is beyond a million) seem to have bleeped out the line in their books which relate to autos with a clutch. For to them, everyone has an automatic transmission.

Wm.

 

If you are going to do the conversion, I recommend going with the T-5. You get overdrive, which is a huge plus, and you don't have any linkage to worry about. You can probably find a bellhousing and block plate used.
Get a new flywheel and clutch and if you have to you can get the z-bar, mounting bracket and linkage new (or go with a cable set up or even a hydraulic set up), locate your pedal assembly and you are good to go.

 

My '65 fastback is in the shop now with a t5 being installed. Modern Driveline.com has everything you need. I went the old way and chased my parts, and it wasn't really a problem. I've a friend who did the 4spd. swap and now he wished he did the 5spd.

 

ALL the parts to swap a t5 into a c4 car can be had from ANY mustang parts house. NPD's catalog has an entire page of all the parts needed to do the swap. Its not really that hard of a thing to do anymore, its a super common swap now.
Bellhousing, crossmember, cable clutch setup, etc.

we reused the slipyoke from the c4 (same spline count and diameter). Might have to trim a little bit on the trans tunnel hole where the shifter goes through.

 

I just did a C4 to Toploader conversion, yes I gave up the overdrive, but I like my 4:56 rear and dont drive the car farther than a few miles.

Once I located the pedals, the rest was easy, including the trans, Dan Williams toploaders. I went with a cable clutch (Modern Drive Line) due to the ease of getting the parts and smooth operation. Also used a blow proof scattershield, although not necessary.

Some minor glitches getting the scatter shield to work with the right header, cable combination. But I love the way a toploader feels and shifts, and again the overdrive was not a huge deal with me. More of a street car, drag car vice resto cruiser.

Have fun, Gydyup

 

I will be doing the top loader in my 68 soon. I am in the middle of a 347 build and when I'm done I will be going with the hydraulic throwout bearing instead of a clutch arm. You can also use a slave cylinder if you wish to keep the clutch arm. There are many posts and articles on the hydraulic conversion. Do a search and read up of you thing you might be interested.

 

What is the going cost of a toploader. Is $1000 in the ball park. And a rebuild should be done before install. The T-5 conversion seems a very good option considering the gearing you can get for off line acceleration plus, the overdrive. T-5 may be an option.

 

Its a pretty easy swap. The key is finding a the pedals and a toploader with the correct tailshaft. I did my C4 to toploader for less than 1000.00
You need the following parts...

Clutch Pedal
Brake Pedal​

Brake Pedal Pad
Pedal Bushings
Pedal Hanger (if required)
Clutch assist spring & bracket
Rod from pedal to equalizer bar
Clutch rod boot at firewall
Clutch equalizer bar (Z bar)
Frame side Z bar bracket
Engine side Z bar bracket
Bracket bushings, C clips and felts
Rod from Z bar to clutch fork
Z bar springs
Bell housing
Engine block plate
Pilot bushing
Resurfaced flywheel
Rebuilt clutch disc
Rebuilt pressure plate
New throw-out bearing
Clutch fork
Clutch fork pivot
Bell housing boot
Bell housing lower cover (if required)
4 speed toploader transmission
4 speed shifter
Upper shift boot and bezel
Backup light switch
Speedometer Cable and Gear
Transmission Yoke (if necessary)
Transmission Cross Member (if necessary)
Transmission Insulator
Driveshaft (if necessary)
​

 

I think I paid Dan Williams 1500 for mine, fully rebuilt - actually new parts inside. If you have a core it knocks off 200 bucks. I went with the wide ratio, got that low first gear, not as low as the T5 but with a 4:56 rear its just right.