If the fork is returning and can't be pulled any farther then the spring is ok. Usually this problem is worn linkage or in correct linkage.

 

Or a improperly adjusted clutch. Is the plate a diaphragm or finger?

 

plate is a finger style. and fork is only retuning when i pull the pedal back up. I sprayed any moving parts with WD-40 today. will let it sit a day and see if that makes any progress.
I'm not saying i have it adjusted properly, BUT i have read every search that has came up on this site and another with no luck. I did find another member who has been dealing with the same issue, whats the odds of that?

 

If finger, did you adjust just enough for needed toe-play?

Crossbar bushings OK?

 

Is it possible the new clutch fork spring isn't strong enough to pull the fork back?

That is an anti-rattle spring. It holds the throwout bearing away from the plate fingers with clutch engaged. The one @ the pedal is an over-ride spring. It makes pushing in the pedal fully a little easier on your leg.

 

Do you have 3/4"-1" free play at the top of the pedal when it's all the way up?

 

I had the exact same problem with my '63. I had a new clutch installed and my mechanic said the clutch linkage was bent up and out of whack. He straightened it out, and it not only was considerably easier to engage/disengage, but it was coming back all the way (parallel with brake pedal).

However, after a few weeks and a couple hundred miles, it's now just like it was before--not coming up all the way (about 2" below brake)

 

I'm pretty confident my linkage is straight. What i found out last night was interesting. I adjusted it to where it functions correctly BUT i'm wondering if it is correct. I'm using an adjustable rod to clutch fork for simplicity.

1) While under car and looking at clutch fork without rod /linkage engaged. Is it normal for there to be some "play" in the fork? I can move the fork a good 3/4" before it feels like resistance. Is this where the free play comes from?

2) I adjusted my clutch fork rod so all this slop is out at clutch fork. When i did this and had my helper(daughter) press down on clutch the pedal only went down a small amount but returned! Thought i was on to something? I got back under car and had her engage pedal again while i watched the linkage. What is the normall travel amount for the clutch fork to move to ensure this is correctly adjusted?

I just want to ensure i understand what/how this is suppose to be functioning so i don't prematuarly wear out any parts.

Thanks everyone
Kevin

 

With 3/4"-1" free play at the top of the pedal the T.O. bearing should be about 1/8" from the pressure plate fingers.

 

I also have the same problem with the pedal not returning, The linkage looked a bit bent so I straightened it out. When I put just a little pressure on it it falls to the floor when the adjustment rod isn't there. But when it is, the pedal will go to the floor 3/4 of the way, feel like it will kind of engage but won't come up.


This happened to me a few weeks ago and I replaced the TO bearing and the pressure plate. It worked great for about 3 weeks then the rod fell and pedal fell as well. Since then I have no idea what to do, please help!

 

Do you have a long spring running from the clutch fork to a bracket? -see diagram and item labeled "retracting spring".

If your car calls for a non-adjustable rod down below (item labeled "release rod" in diagram), but you've now added an adjustable one, caution must be taken to adjust that rod similar to the old non-adjustable rod it replaced -otherwise your upper adjustment will fall "out of range" beyond the limits of the threads.

If you still have that old smooth rod, measure it's length and adjust your new lower rod the same. Then go to the upper one and make your final adjustments there. Some PP's offer a mushy poor "feel" when adjusting free play, so try adjusting the 2 nuts up the rod about 2" to start (if your clutch is new), then go up and down from there -but should get you in the ball-park.

Please note: many '64 and older FE setups using the same style equalizer I've noticed are missing the rubber insulators mounted on each side of the adjustment rod that insulate vibration from your foot, and if missing, will cause the "trunnion" to bend severely, throw off clutch adjustment and eventually will break off if not addressed. An ez fix is to add bronze "hat" bushings in there to take up the space, but Mac's and others stock those insulators.

 

Yes it does and it came with an adjustable one when I bought it, but it was pretty old looking. I even tried to make the spring extra taught on the hopes that it would help the return of the pedal but didn't do anything. I'm stumped, and its driving me up the wall.

 

Sorry to not get back right away .... It would be helpful to see a photo(s) of what you've got going on there...for me or others to offer more help. Additionally, more details about your clutch linkage connections, etc.... Then maybe I'll "see" something amiss that I can point out?

 

Stewart,

I used a new adjustable one, i had to purchase all the parts from firewall down to tranny b.c. my car was missing these parts. What i did to get mine to function was with car jacked up and blocked had wife sit in and function the clutch pedal so i could see how/what was happening (or suppose to). Ended up adjusting the release rod until the release lever made contact and then i backed it off. Then i went and adjusted the "pedal to equilizer rod" for free play. This solved my problem.

I know i still have ajustments to make but enjoying driving the car finally. this winter i plan on trying to put the "release rod" that i got that is non adjustable and pre-bent back in to see if i can fine tune it.

Hope this helps
Kevin

 

Alright, I think I found the problem, I was looking at the z bar with a friend of mine, and we noticed that the bracket that is attached to the clutch pedal had pretty much cracked open on the firewall side. All this time, and I never saw it. I've never even herd of anything like this happening. So, anyone know where to get a new Z bar?