the Explorer 8.8" is way easier to find, and already has discs on it after 1995 or so. may just have to relocate the spring perches.
should be close enough on the width at 59.5"?

 

So I did think of an 8.8 but I still would have to fabricated brakets to work.
And I also want an easy to swap gearing to run the stock 2.75 ratio to do cross country cruises, and then go back to a better fun gear, So a 9inch it is

Thanks, DesertXL
I wouldn't mind having someone make a new complete rearend, but I want to keep it under 2k for refurbished and of course less if I can find a good stocker and do it all myself, it's hard for me to spend that type of money on just a rearend. when a 9in is so easy to work on and whole thirdmembers are pretty reasonably priced nowadays

Touring919
thanks for the knowledge that will help for looking

70XL
I'm using a kit from piratejack.com, It comes with all 3 patterns base brakets so it just works.
I have 4 wheel drums and had "ZERO" Brakes! Didn't feel like replacing all those! And beat my head into my fenders while doing so.
But I was told when I bought the car that it was a 9inch and bought a kit accordingly. So I got lucky that they include all the styles of patterns, but I'm very glad I did, would have double guessed fitment for a longtime. And so COMPLETELY reusable for when I find a new 9inich.

So all 4 disc's brake swap and booster kit about $1300 after taxes which is not a fun bill but worth it to me.

 

So doing a disc brake conversion and find out I have the !AMAZING! 8.75 c-cliped rearend 😑
I know you are jealous! But don't be ill trade you. . .

Questions is does anyone know if a company sells a "bolt-in" 9in for the 1970 fullsize that is not $4000-5000!

I think from what I can Find for suspension kits I could use 68-72 years? Fact check if you know

I know I could find another car with a stock 9in, but it's hard to find a parts car for that

I think I'll probably have to buy a housing cut and making the brakets for all the links and coil seat, witch I can do but don't want to

Finding old 9in are not hard but they are mostly from leaf spring cars

Hello Dmandie,

I have Moser Engineering make me a brand new Ford 9" for my 1973 Chevrolet full size. The axle housing and 1541h axle shafts were around 2500 dollars. Obviously you need the rest of the bits for the axle. But it's not too bad. Moser was very accommodating as they made the Ford 9" so I could bolt on 94-96 Caprice Interceptor/Impala SS rear disc brakes. Now I bought everything brand new; Richmond Gears, Eaton True Track, nodular iron case, etc. The total cost was about 4500 dollars. But you could always find used internals to help offset the cost.

For 3rd generation full size 65-68. The '66 to '68 Ford 9" axle will interchange. The '65 will not. I am not sure about the 4th generation axles though.

If you do find that the 1966-1968 axles will fit your 1970. Just be aware in 1966 there were two 9" axles offered. The small bearing/light duty and the big bearing heavy duty. You'll want to stick to the large bearing heavy duty as it gives you more options. I couldn't give 1966 full size light duty Ford 9" axles away, ended up scrapping them.

Good luck.

 

I think you need 69 to 73. 68 and down is more narrow. 74 and up have a different bolt pattern.

I found a replacement a few years ago for my 70. It took a month or three of searching c list and Facebook.

 

I also have the WER rear axle in my car and I have considered doing a disc brake swap, but have not yet attempted it. I think the place to start is with the bolt pattern on the axle flange and compare the bolt pattern with the three options for the 9" and see if anything lines up, or is close. It may be like with headers, there is no direct application, but there is something that can work with minor alterations. I think it is Wilwood, or Stainless Steel that publish a sheet with the 9" Ford bolt patterns, so that can be found on line.

 

I used the chart on the Wilwood website.

Axle Housing Flange

 

If you have more time than money just keep looking for 69 or 70 for a bolt in swap. A wagon with bigger engine is a better bet for large bearings. In a sedan it takes more than a 351 engine to get 9 inch. You need to find one with 390 or larger engine. I did the swap in a 67 and a 78, both required the hybrid U joints. They didn't cost anymore than normal.