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Here's a hard one for you

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2.3K views 20 replies 5 participants last post by  RAGGAREN  
#1 ·
I have a 1966 Ford galaxie 500 with the 390 2bbl carburator. I'll give you all the details I can. So first off, I bought the car and a few weeks after owning it, the engine bursts up in flames. And after that, about 2 weeks later, it catches on fire again. After that, I rebuilt the carburator, new plug wires, new plugs new distributor cap. Once I did all of that, I didn't have any issues really. Then last Friday, i start it up and I smell a familiar smell (burning) so i put it in reverse and halfway floor it out of the garage, once out I pop the hood and sure enough the temp gauge wires were burnt on top (can't be the temp gauge wires cause there ground wires), but there was no fire. The carb dosent leak any gas anymore so I dont know what's causing these fires? At this point I get a new coil just to see what happens, well that's where the new problems start. Now it dosent want to run with the choke plate open all the way, it has to be about halfway open, otherwise it will run real rough. Also idle has to be high otherwise it will run rough. When engine is running it runs rougher, and rpms fluctuate quite a bit. Also I notice at night that I can see a blueish colored flash of light around all of the spark plugs when they go off, and sometimes I see a blueish flash of light on the coil wire where it rests on the metal. I put the old coil back on hoping it all goes back to the way it was, but no it still runs terribly. This is my daily driver and I can barely drive it now. Please HELP!!! Sorry about the long post, any help is GREATLY appreciated!
 
#2 ·
Your carb needs to be rebuilt and you need to deal with the arching from the ignition wires. With an old car like this you have to give it a good, proper tune up, especially if this is a daily driver with a need to be reliable. At least you need a new rotor, cap, points and condenser, plug wires, coil, spark plugs and a carb rebuild. You will then need to time the ignition in order to get it to run properly. All just basic tune-up and starting point stuff.
 
#4 ·
So one more question, the car started doing some other wierd stuff. First off, now the starter seems to have trouble starting the car, it isn't constantly spinning like it used to, it will still start the car up but it just acts wierd. Also, when going to start the motor up when it is warm (usually 5-10 minutes after it last ran) it puffs a lot of whitish/grey steam or smoke out of the oil filler cap, but only when starting the car, once it is running, it stops.
 
#6 ·
Did this stuff start after you installed the rotor, points and condenser? I'm wondering if the points are set properly and did the timing get bumped out of wack a bit? Hard starting can be from to much advance on the initial timing.

I suggested rebuilding the carb when you said it needs enriching to run and if there was too much fuel around to catch fire. If it needs some choke to run when it is warmed up, then it is too lean and something is causing it to not provide enough fuel. The high idle setting could also be an indicator of blocked carb passages. The rough running could also be a result of ignition, ignition timing and/or vacuum problems.
 
#5 ·
There's a LOT going on here. I agree 100% with post 2, basic tuneup. I also suspect that you have other stuff going on that can be solved by making sure the other basic systems are connected and operating properly.

Being a daily driver you need to learn basic tune up of the ignition, fuel systems, charging system, and positive crankcase ventilation systems.

The "weird" starter thing. Start by checking your battery voltage at stop- should be about 12.6 volts, then when running should be about 14.4. Check and clean all connections.

The steam out of the oil fill cap points to water in the oil- a very bad condition since this points to a leaking head gasket. If run like that you will destroy the engine. Check the oil at the dipstick- if it is opaque at all that indicates water in the oil.

Check the PCV system, make sure the hoses are connected properly and the PCV valve isn't clogged. These systems changed incrementally over the years so review your shop manual. However they all generally work the same way- fresh, filtered air is allowed to enter the crankcase (usually through the filler cap); a connection at the opposite side of the engine (valve cover or the rear of the intake manifold) has a 1/2" hose that runs to full manifold vacuum through a check (PCV) valve.
 
#9 ·
Put new points, condenser, rotor and coil on car, I can back the idle back down now but still runs better with choke plate closed half way. When at a light or drive thru, the engine starts acting up ( puffing out of the exhaust, shaking, possibly missing?) until I go again. When taking off from a stop at a light, the engine has a flat spot SOMETIMES when you try and accelerate quicker. When up to around 10mph or so and you accelerate quickly, it accelerates great. The other problem it has is that the brakes (power brakes) used to"grab" more on there own and now they dont as much. Also when slowing down, the motor starts shaking around a lot and running rough as you come to a complete stop, then after a few seconds of being completely stopped, the engine will smooth out until next time I stop again. Any suggestions is greatly appreciated.
 
#12 ·
[1]Put new points, condenser, rotor and coil on car, I can back the idle back down now but still runs better with choke plate closed half way.
[2]When at a light or drive thru, the engine starts acting up ( puffing out of the exhaust, shaking, possibly missing?) until I go again.
[3]When taking off from a stop at a light, the engine has a flat spot SOMETIMES when you try and accelerate quicker. When up to around 10mph or so and you accelerate quickly, it accelerates great. [4]The other problem it has is that the brakes (power brakes) used to"grab" more on there own and now they dont as much. Also when slowing down, the motor starts shaking around a lot and running rough as you come to a complete stop, then after a few seconds of being completely stopped, the engine will smooth out until next time I stop again. Any suggestions is greatly appreciated.
1. Your idle mixture is too lean. When you rebuilt the carburetor these are a series of adjustments to be made both during the rebuild then on the running, warmed up engine. Did you follow these to the letter?
2. See #1 above, plus the PCV system- make sure that it is operating properly.
3. That's an accelerator pump adjustment. See #1.
4. This points to low vacuum or vacuum leak. Trace the power brake vacuum line back to the manifold and check for leaks. If you have a vacuum line to the interior of the car (for accessories or heat/ AC controls, temporarily disconnect it, plug the source and see if the brakes improve.

Part of a proper tune is ignition timing. That really needs to be done prior to final carburetor adjustments. Make sure that you have the vacuum advance on the distributor connected to the intake vacuum. Then disconnect it temporarily and plug the source. Use a timing light and set your initial advance to 2 degrees BTDC. Then reconnect the vacuum advance- the engine should speed up and run smoother.

For best performance, use a vacuum gage and tee it into the manifold vacuum (leave the distributor vacuum advance connected). From the 8 degrees, while the engine is warm, advance the distributor in small increments while keeping an eye on the vacuum gauge. When it reaches its peak value, stop advancing. Further advance will keep a high vacuum but you want to be at the point where it starts to be maximum. Then tighten down the distributor. Then make final adjustments to your idle mixture. Remove the tools and gauges, and take the car for a short test drive. Look for a steep hill and accelerate up it from a stop, listen for engine knock. If it knocks, you need to reduce the distributor advance a small amount (try 2 degrees). Then test drive it again.
 
#11 · (Edited)
When you rebuilt the carb., did you replace the power valve? And if you look down from the top and pump the throttle (engine off of course), does the output from the accelerator pump look normal?

With the engine idling, try spraying carb. cleaner around the base of the carb. and possibly around the intake ports if you feel like taking the valve covers off. Don't spray too much in the engine to dilute the oil. But any change in idle quality or speed indicates a vacuum leak.

Pat
 
#18 ·
Car won't run now!! I went on the drive I last posted about with the brakes, then I came back out to drive it three hours later and it barely ran and got worse the more I started it. First it would run, but barely rev up, then it would run but everytime I revved it it would just suck air and rpms dont raise. Then it only ran at full throttle but very rough And low rpms. And it got to the point where it won't run at all. Got stranded at school. I messed with carb and I'm getting fuel (pulled top of carb off, completely full, when pulling throttle I see fuel coming out like normal, new fuel pump). I'm getting spark as well. I'm completely stumped!
 
#19 ·