Has anyone ever heard of this. MY trans has the ford valve body with a transbrake solenoid on the outside of the trans.
417chad
Let me start over here.
1st off, This is my first post, been a long time reader and learned a lot from other guys on this forum.
I bought a c-4 (pan fill) several years ago off a guy on the net. I have been running it behind a 460 running 10.50s at 128 in a 3000lb fox body capri that is street driven (aprox 200 miles per year). Last time I had it to the track it lost 3 mph at the same rpm I was crossing at before in the 1/4 so I figured it was slipping in 3rd and decided to pull it apart and see what parts were in the trans and what was causing it to slow down. I was told it had a trans brake in it, and it does have a solenoid on the outside of the trans, in the same place as the factory vacume mod goes. But I never tried the brake. I figured it had some sort of aftermarket valvebody in it, but it has ford part numbers on the top and bottom of the valve body. My first question is, does anybody make a transbrake that uses a modified ford valve body? I was very disappointed when I pulled the body out and did not see JW. or TCI stamped on it somewhere.
Besides that the only problems I have seen was the high clutches and steels had burn marks on them and the flex band that holds them was burnt. Also several thrust washers had severe wear on them.
This is my first transmission rebuild, but I have read a couple of books and a bunch of post on several websites, the c-4 does not look to complicated to rebuild.
1st off, This is my first post, been a long time reader and learned a lot from other guys on this forum.
I bought a c-4 (pan fill) several years ago off a guy on the net. I have been running it behind a 460 running 10.50s at 128 in a 3000lb fox body capri that is street driven (aprox 200 miles per year). Last time I had it to the track it lost 3 mph at the same rpm I was crossing at before in the 1/4 so I figured it was slipping in 3rd and decided to pull it apart and see what parts were in the trans and what was causing it to slow down. I was told it had a trans brake in it, and it does have a solenoid on the outside of the trans, in the same place as the factory vacume mod goes. But I never tried the brake. I figured it had some sort of aftermarket valvebody in it, but it has ford part numbers on the top and bottom of the valve body. My first question is, does anybody make a transbrake that uses a modified ford valve body? I was very disappointed when I pulled the body out and did not see JW. or TCI stamped on it somewhere.
Besides that the only problems I have seen was the high clutches and steels had burn marks on them and the flex band that holds them was burnt. Also several thrust washers had severe wear on them.
This is my first transmission rebuild, but I have read a couple of books and a bunch of post on several websites, the c-4 does not look to complicated to rebuild.
Hello and welcome .
First off you must have got a good deal and a nice build , to last like it did you've done well . Some pics of the setu would be able to tell you a bit more .
Now near all valvebodies , manual and transbrakes are based on the factory castings and modified internal. Sure there are some billet fancy aluminium types around as well.
Since you have an already good combo I'd be freshening it and go again.
Be thankful it doesn't have TCI on it LOL
First off you must have got a good deal and a nice build , to last like it did you've done well . Some pics of the setu would be able to tell you a bit more .
Now near all valvebodies , manual and transbrakes are based on the factory castings and modified internal. Sure there are some billet fancy aluminium types around as well.
Since you have an already good combo I'd be freshening it and go again.
Be thankful it doesn't have TCI on it LOL
Not too bad. Nothing a freshen up won't fix. Clutches look ok for the use they've had. What's there? 5 or only 4? If 4 I think you need more. Stock thrusts are way past they're use IMO , time for rollers. There are other lube mods also would be beneficial.
Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
The input shaft has 26 splines going into the converter and 24 going into the 1st gear drum not sure how to tell if it is hardened.
The Jellybean holes have been welded. It just has a stock looking 3 gear planet. It also has a TCI 523005 servo on it. It does have 5 clutches in both packs.
I did your pump mod last night, I removed the spring and ballbearings still need to tap it for the pipe plug.
I am probably going to get the kit from broader for the #9 thrust.
Do you think I need to go to 6 clutches in the forward drum?
Also the front band is a flex and the rear is solid. Should I go back with the same?
Thanks for the response! Like I said this I my first trans build.
I do have a lathe so if some of the parts need turned to put rollers in I can do unless they need milled.
The Jellybean holes have been welded. It just has a stock looking 3 gear planet. It also has a TCI 523005 servo on it. It does have 5 clutches in both packs.
I did your pump mod last night, I removed the spring and ballbearings still need to tap it for the pipe plug.
I am probably going to get the kit from broader for the #9 thrust.
Do you think I need to go to 6 clutches in the forward drum?
Also the front band is a flex and the rear is solid. Should I go back with the same?
Thanks for the response! Like I said this I my first trans build.
I do have a lathe so if some of the parts need turned to put rollers in I can do unless they need milled.
Ok sounds like not too bad of a build then. Take some pics of input shaft of the splined ends might be able to tell if is is aftermarket. If the front planet is stock look very close for wear or if it might been modded.
Also check the lube holes in the sun gear see if they been drilled to oil the front planet more.
Front flex is fine all rear are solid so can use same again. Pump mod is good. Open the hole at the stator face just where the 1/8 plug goes in as well to 13/64 and chamfer.
Drill rear case return to 3/16"
The broader #9 kit is the go. As is rollers on the others. Check few posts above there is a how-to.
Anything you're not sure sing out can talk you through it or can put up pics if that helps.
Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Also check the lube holes in the sun gear see if they been drilled to oil the front planet more.
Front flex is fine all rear are solid so can use same again. Pump mod is good. Open the hole at the stator face just where the 1/8 plug goes in as well to 13/64 and chamfer.
Drill rear case return to 3/16"
The broader #9 kit is the go. As is rollers on the others. Check few posts above there is a how-to.
Anything you're not sure sing out can talk you through it or can put up pics if that helps.
Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
I meant to say also, to machine for roller thrusts is done in a lathe with a good carbide cutter.
5 clutches in the forward drum is ok, in the high/reverse 5 does ok too but I do like to go with 6 and prob a good idea with a 460 in front of it.
Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
5 clutches in the forward drum is ok, in the high/reverse 5 does ok too but I do like to go with 6 and prob a good idea with a 460 in front of it.
Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Ok do I just open the hole that faces the pump or do I need to also drill all the way down into the center of the stator where the check balls were?
Also on the rear case drill all the way down and through the bushing?
Looks like someone already drilled my case to oil the #9 thrust looks like about a 1/8th inch hole.
Also on the rear case drill all the way down and through the bushing?
Looks like someone already drilled my case to oil the #9 thrust looks like about a 1/8th inch hole.
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
