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Questions on 1970 Ford XL.

2.4K views 7 replies 6 participants last post by  goggleye  
#1 ·
I have received an email, where the person is interested in buying a 1970 XL Fastback. I am about to direct him here to Ford Muscle, and hopefully he might join up, and you guys with the experience can put him in the right direction.
Below is a copy of the email he sent to me.
Dan.


"Hello,

I am living in tennessee in the states..I was looking at potentially buying a 70 ford xl 2dr fastback with a 351 in it... Its going to be my driving project before I head to afghanistan later this year. I lost my last one in a flood here last year.. Anyway I was wondering what are some things to look out for when buying a Xl.. I have looked online buy resources are limited for these cars... The car seems to be at a very good price(850.00usd) the guy says it runs and it is pretty much rust free other than the chrome bumpers and some under the rear tail light.. I am going to look at it here in the next day or two.. I found your website through the 460ford forum and it kind of inspired me with the XL.

thanks

Justin."
 
#2 · (Edited)
Pretty much the same things as with any other car...frame rot,excessive bondo in the quarters and fenders, etc. One other place to look at is on the rear roof pillars where they leaded the top onto the rest of the lower sheet metal. On my project, and my parts car they both have the same "bubbles" which look like body cancer, but is actually globs of lead. If it has a vinyl top, look at the headliner closely for signs of water leakage from rust pin holes. The rust below the tail lights is fairly commom on the Galaxies for 69/70 the exhaust usually stopped right under the bumper and the corrosive gases would eat away at the metal ledge that runs between the rear bumper and the body. Its more like a filler strip. They're spot welded on, but not too big a job to make a new one. Mine will need replaced as well. Not sure what else to advise, other than being aware that these bodies were for only two years and sheet metal is kinda hard to find. One other thing to be aware of....the doors are huge on these and more than likely he'll need to replace hinge pins and bushings.
 
#3 ·
Thanks Bruce, I knew you'd come to the rescue.
I had answered him in my reply email, but my answer is not really that relevant being on the other side of the world.
 
#8 ·
With a car at or around 1K price, you've gotta figure virtually everything mechanical is worn. Some will not be, and will have much life, but I think that if you start with the assumption that you'll have to replace or shore up everything mechanical in short order (either right away or over the next 3 years), it is a good mindset to have. From bushings, to brakes, hoses, water pump, muffler and pipes, intake gaskets, carburetor, differential service, minimally transmission service (if not major work), belts, radiator, tires, and many more I have missed. If some are in good shape, and the engine sounds solid, 1K is more than reasonable.

Does it have to be a 1970? The 1969 is essentially the same car, and in my opinion, a little sharper looking. I have one of each!

Poke around under the front seats, both the passenger and driver side, where the pan is at the lowest point. Feel for crunchiness. If I recall right, for the 69/70, it is double walled at this point, so under the car it might be solid, but rusted through at the top just under the seats.